opened it up today and it is rusted and empty... I assumed the rear would be since im working on that section of the car. Looks really bad in the cylinder. So what are you guys doing in these cases to keep original? I assume this one is the original but I will need to confirm. Thanks once again! -John
If it is original it will look like this one -
https://www.deadnutson.com/1967-68-mustang-shelby-master-cylinder-with-cap/ (https://www.deadnutson.com/1967-68-mustang-shelby-master-cylinder-with-cap/)
If it is indeed the original one it can be rebuilt either by you or someone else.
Quote from: hurlbird on June 07, 2020, 06:07:45 PM
opened it up today and it is rusted and empty... I assumed the rear would be since im working on that section of the car. Looks really bad in the cylinder. So what are you guys doing in these cases to keep original? I assume this one is the original but I will need to confirm. Thanks once again! -John
that's it except mine has a cadmium or bright silver cap the dead nuts appears to be black. suggestions on good rebuilders?
Quote from: hurlbird on June 07, 2020, 06:07:45 PM
opened it up today and it is rusted and empty... I assumed the rear would be since im working on that section of the car. Looks really bad in the cylinder. So what are you guys doing in these cases to keep original? I assume this one is the original but I will need to confirm. Thanks once again! -John
What year are you working on??
1968 and discovering sins of the past :)
To keep original parts like Master cylinders, and wheel cylinders too, I send them out to be sleeved and rebuilt. There are a few sources for this listed in Hemmings Motor News.
Quote from: hurlbird on June 07, 2020, 07:05:12 PM
that's it except mine has a cadmium or bright silver cap the dead nuts appears to be black. suggestions on good rebuilders?
The master cylinder, cap, bail and booster were panted black as an assembled unit - the plating of the cap doesn't show when in place.
not sure what you mean JD. My cap is very visible and is a silver color with the sticker. Thanks
Yes you can see the lid but - the master cylinder, cap, bail and booster were panted black as an assembled unit - all of those items were assembled as a complete group of parts and hung in the air spray painted semi-gloss black and installed in the car as a completed unit the cap would get a sticker to identify the fluid to be used - the plating is covered by paint.
Chevy's of the era have no paint on the lids, master and booster and you do see the color of the plating or raw casting of the master cylinder.
See examples, note these are images of a late '67's, the '68 were done similarly to my understanding.
The first is "correct" all items painted black, the second is incorrect note the un-painted cap/lid, it should be black and have a sticker on top of the black paint
so you are saying all of the black paint came off of my lid revealing the silver color the cap was before being painted? Thanks for all the info...
Quote from: hurlbird on June 08, 2020, 01:42:47 PM
so you are saying all of the black paint came off of my lid revealing the silver color the cap was before being painted? Thanks for all the info...
Or if your car has been restored or "freshened up" a bit someone overlooked the detail. A very typical mistake and plenty of them (unpainted lids) out there on the internet in pictures to lead owners and shops astray
As for a rebuilder many have used and have suggested White Post. No personal use of them yet. Haven't needed it but here's a link
https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/ (https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/)
good to know and thanks for the reference......
Quote from: hurlbird on June 08, 2020, 01:42:47 PM
so you are saying all of the black paint came off of my lid revealing the silver color the cap was before being painted? Thanks for all the info...
You may want to review this Master cylinder cap article to confirm if your cap is original type for your car or if has been replaced . http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/1/7/6/3176630/master_cylinder_caps_1.5.pdf
Thanks.. looks like my cap is correct.
I have had good luck with this company for rebuilding originals.
https://www.goldlinebrakes.com/
thanks!!! so the fun begins with the removal of the MC and the booster. I need an extra arm and be made of rubber. :-\
Quote from: hurlbird on June 09, 2020, 04:02:08 PM
thanks!!! so the fun begins with the removal of the MC and the booster. I need an extra arm and be made of rubber. :-\
You probably are but just in case,definitely plan on having the booster rebuilt while out.
thanks Bob will do!
Getting ready top shoot the car in red oxide... Does anyone have pix of where the lift points are located. Also was looking to see what type/size washer to replicate.....
Quote from: Joebantelman on June 11, 2020, 06:12:06 PM
Getting ready top shoot the car in red oxide... Does anyone have pix of where the lift points are located. Also was looking to see what type/size washer to replicate.....
Kind of off thread but guess your referring to the 8 (8 visible from under the car and 4 visible from above) "dolly marks"
http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=5463.msg46602#msg46602 (http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=5463.msg46602#msg46602)
Search is your friend :) Most of the time
Here is a picture of the front and rear frame shadows to give you an idea of the diameter of the washer/stand shadow. Small er than the width of the front frame rail attached to the driver and passenger floor panel and wider than the rear frame rail at the back of the car
If you build/create faux stands for each you will get the natural/original U shaped paint shadows from the exterior and pinch weld black out applications depending on the part of the body being painted as shown in the example below
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-110620183133.jpeg)
68 covert
Ford over the counter replacement masters were not painted in the 70's and 80's. Perhaps you have a replacement. I believe they were used until about 1979.