Hi,
Wonder if anyone can help , I run 67 GT350 no 1789 over here in England . I intend to fit a set of try-y headers , will these fit without too much modifying with the big hammer treatment as I have the motor fitted with a Cobra t pan. The car is an auto so no clutch z bar problems.Many thanks to anyone who may be of help. Steve.
Steve,
I have been running Try-y's on my '67 for almost 30 years. They fit right in with no problem since the engine bay is larger on a '67. My car is also and an automatic. You will need the extended bracket the mounts to the frame, lowering the power steering cylinder attachment point.
Thanks for letting me know , do you use the Cobra ally T pan .
I ran tri ys on my 68 GT 500. Fit great with a small dimple around the bell housing. You won't have that problem. I dropped my power steering cylinder with the bracket for a while and then removed it and it was fine.
Quote from: smallblock289 on May 24, 2020, 01:58:32 PM
Thanks for letting me know , do you use the Cobra ally T pan .
Yes, I am using a Cobra T-Pan.
I have a '65 restomod, so it's a bit different than your '67, but my experience may apply. I too have the Cobra T-pan. I found that there is a considerable fit and quality difference between at least two tri-y header vendors. A few years ago, I bought a set of headers from one of the big Mustang vendors. I don't recall who or what I paid, but based on how cheap I am, it was likely in the $250 range. When it came time to get my exhaust fitted, I had these headers blasted and prepped for ceramic coating. I took them into my local high-performance exhaust shop. They looked at my headers and told me I would likely be unhappy with these. They pointed out that the flanges and pipe walls were both thin and the design had some significant interference with aftermarket parts I had in my restomod.
They suggested that I look for a better quality set of headers and made some recommendations. They said they couldn't get better pricing than I could myself, so they suggested I simply contact the vendors directly. They coached me on how to properly evaluate the headers. I wound up going with "Stan's Headers" (which apparently is also the source for "FPA Headers"). I paid $588 + $50 shipping for "260Y" Tri-Y's plus $200 for ceramic coating. There was still a slight interference with my aftermarket R&P box, but it was easily addressed. Plenty of clearance for everything else and they tuck up nice and tight under the car.
My point is that while there appear to be several good Tri-Y vendors, you might get a better fit by steering clear of the lower-priced versions.
Thanks for everybodys help on my question.
No one bothered to address the issue with the common power steering ram drop-down bracket and it's tendency to rip the rivnuts out of the frame rail.
Be SURE to buy this for your installation. I pulled them out of my 67 GT500 and had to have them welded back in.
Here is the link below for the heavy duty unit. It's available from West Coast Classic Cougar.There are some cheap 20-30.00 drop downs. Don't even consider them.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/e5h21.html
I'm running tri-y headers on my '67 GT350 - also in the UK. I don't recall the manufacturer as I bought them about 33 years ago. My car is a 4-speed with standard oil pan.
There are some slight interference issues around the bell housing, and the clutch Z-bar but theses are very minor. The steering idler arm also touches on full left-hand lock but again this is minor.
The biggest issue has been the power steering ram drop bracket. I found it difficult to get the bracket to sit properly on both the bottom and side surfaces of the chassis rail so that it could be tightened down. I had to pack it with washers. The second issue was that the extended length of the bracket increased the lever-arm that the ram acts on, to the extent that the bottom surface of the chassis rail flexed, splitting the pinch-weld along the side. I had this seam welded back together and it seems ok now.
David
One more question, anybody having any problems with the plug leads and melting with heat from the headers , I,d really like to keep the stock black of possible , nothing looks worse than bright yellow or blue when you open the hood.
many thanks
Not I. I am running a 427 with Hooker Headers. I did get away from the Marti wires because the boots tend to tear.
Quote from: The Going Thing on May 25, 2020, 04:01:21 AM
Not I. I am running a 427 with Hooker Headers. I did get away from the Marti wires because the boots tend to tear.
+1 on the Marti boots tearing. I switched to different plugs on my 67 as well.
No issue with stock black plug leads and tri-y headers
David
Quote from: Skidado on May 25, 2020, 10:10:38 AM
No issue with stock black plug leads and tri-y headers
David
I have no issues with Marti plug wire boots splitting either. I use them on both cars.
I have have had two sets do it. They are not particularly suited for any performance ignition system as they also bleed. You small block people forget that the FE head design also exposes the boots to much more heat than the small block.
Quote from: smallblock289 on May 25, 2020, 03:11:49 AM
One more question, anybody having any problems with the plug leads and melting with heat from the headers , I,d really like to keep the stock black of possible , nothing looks worse than bright yellow or blue when you open the hood.
many thanks
Cannibalize a set of silicone wires and swap the boots.
I have a big block a small block and an aluminum head Cleveland. In my view the issue is the boot melting against a hot header. The silicone boots will melt in the spot where they touch but that kind of molds them to the location.
The Marti boots are the original Ford boots and eventually will dry out and split from the heat exposure. It doesn't happen overnight though. Some last a lot longer then others.
In all cases you don't really see the boots on my cars. The BB the wires just disappear below the valve covers entirely.
I bought too sets of "Ford Racing" grey 9mm wires. I put a set on the Pantera. In 15 minutes both the boots and wires spit.