2+ years ago, I restored the steering wheel on my previous 67 Shelby GT350. During that time, I documented my steps with pictures and verbiage on Forum 1.0. However, I didn't write down what I did, and 1.0 is long gone.
Can anyone share how they have restored their steering wheel?
Thanks!
Jeff Stephens.
Before and after, bought the car, went to move the car and BANG! My car was in a "lite or light" however you want to say it, front end bump years ago. Fast forward to today and from that minor collision, someone was not waring a seatbelt and probably broke the welds on the rim. Undiscovered danger. Can you imagine being at a SAAC track event and snapping off your wheel? Thank GOD it happen in the driveway. To this day, I do a good pull on that wheel before I drive that car.
Anyway Jeff had it tig welded, made some new plastic parts, repaired the wood, and its now in the car
I do live near him, so it was easy for me to just take it to him. I am sure there are other people out there that can do a nice job refinishing them also, but just wanted to share my experience.
Can anyone tell me how to rotate pictures on a MacBook? They appear correct in my pictures on the computer, but almost every time when posting them, some rotate.
I have seen lots of re-finished wheels and some have a "milky" look to them, I don't think you want that.
+1 on Jeff. He did an early '67 off no. 83 for me a few years ago:
Thanks guys. I'm very familiar with Jeff's work. And, I wanted to do this wheel myself. So, I'm looking for suggestions on technique such as:
- Stripping the wood (sand paper used, etc.)
- Filling / correcting cracks (I have some hairline cracks on the back side of my wheel that run parallel to the black portion)
- Stain to be used
- Polyurethane / clear coat
Again, I had done this to my previous wheel, and I really enjoyed the process / would like to do it again.
Thanks again!
If its just a simple refinish, yes you can do it and it can be fun, just make sure you use compatable materials for the black parts and a finish that will be rock hard.
1 Sand off all old finish(careful to mask spoke ends so they don't get scratched) 2 .Apply Birchwood Casey tru oil gustock finish with your fingers,3 let dry and level with oooo steel wool, 4 tack dust off with thinner. Repeat steps 2-4 about 20 times.Very time consuming(days) mostly drying time.Final step is to protect it with a regular coat of Birchwood Casey gun stock wax.Deep finish.Worked well for me.This is all ,of course,assuming that your original "core" doesn't have wood damage/losses,etc. Good luck,and enjoy,it is a very satisfying process and ends in a very durable,glossy finish.
Quote from: 557 on April 21, 2020, 12:22:42 PM
1 Sand off all old finish(careful to mask spoke ends so they don't get scratched) 2 .Apply Birchwood Casey tru oil gustock finish with your fingers,3 let dry and level with oooo steel wool, 4 tack dust off with thinner. Repeat steps 2-4 about 20 times.Very time consuming(days) mostly drying time.Final step is to protect it with a regular coat of Birchwood Casey gun stock wax.Deep finish.Worked well for me.This is all ,of course,assuming that your original "core" doesn't have wood damage/losses,etc. Good luck,and enjoy,it is a very satisfying process and ends in a very durable,glossy finish.
Thanks 557! What grit sandpaper did you use to sand off the old finish?
And, I'd love to see a picture of your wheel now, if you have a picture.
It's been awhile,so my mind is kinda foggy on the grit,but it was progressively finer grits if I remember properly...200 ish to maybe 600/800 ish.Very important that you get off all the old finish or the Tru oil won't get into the wood and it will look crappy/uneven.