Im working on a early 1966 4 Speed Hertz Shelby and getting ready to put the brakes back on. Installing the Mico master cylinder and looking for any details on if these were painted or not when installed. Not sure if anyone has come across any vintage photos from that time would be great to see.
Have you confirmed that the car your working on originally came with that type of master cylinder given its an early one?
Just a thought
843s was natural cast iron. Somewhere I have a picture of it from 1975. If I remember there was an aluminum cap that was anodized blue?
6S477 original - no paint. NOS replacement bought from Ford dealer in '74 - no paint. Aluminum hex nut - blue anodized. Cap - cad / dull zinc plated.
550's Mico was bare cast iron, no paint.
Quote from: J_Speegle on March 08, 2018, 01:08:38 AM
Have you confirmed that the car your working on originally came with that type of master cylinder given its an early one?
Just a thought
+1 . The registry comes in handy in determining that detail.
Thanks for the input all....and yes confirmed a while back that this car had the Mico master cylinder so we are good there.
Anyone have the ability to post a photo....or email me and I can post here. Curious about the blue anodized cap.
This is what I have now. I am going to assume the brackets are not painted either.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4797/40698794981_8efcd07204_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/251pXPK)IMG_9967 (https://flic.kr/p/251pXPK) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
Quote from: anghelrestorations on March 08, 2018, 06:16:30 PM
Thanks for the input all....and yes confirmed a while back that this car had the Mico master cylinder so we are good there.
Anyone have the ability to post a photo....or email me and I can post here. Curious about the blue anodized cap.
This is what I have now. I am going to assume the brackets are not painted either.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4797/40698794981_8efcd07204_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/251pXPK)IMG_9967 (https://flic.kr/p/251pXPK) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
I have seen the brackets painted black more so then flash rust like they would be if left bare steel. Also it looks like you are missing the cylinder shaped ID tag that went around the metal bypass tube.
I too have seen the mounting plates black or at least what was remaining of the black.
An example from someone else offered earlier
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-080318185710.jpeg)
Sure you have seen the discussions related to the proportioning valve being finished in black but wanted to mention that detail since its in your picture
Ok thanks. Easy enough to paint those pieces black.
Still think this is the ugliest master cylinder I have ever seen on a Mustang. Will be interesting to see how it operates once on the road.
And for the proportioning valve, yes, have those details but just had this in the photo there. Still need to detail that.
Quote from: anghelrestorations on March 08, 2018, 07:16:04 PM
Ok thanks. Easy enough to paint those pieces black.
Still think this is the ugliest master cylinder I have ever seen on a Mustang. Will be interesting to see how it operates once on the road.
And for the proportioning valve, yes, have those details but just had this in the photo there. Still need to detail that.
Don't get your hopes up. ;)
Marcus,
The large aluminum hex fitting under the brass fitting was "medium blue anodized " originally. They often fade. Both brackets are painted black and you appear to have the "upgraded" brackets. Mine were replaced under warranty at Hi Performance Motors and SAI was charged. I have the copies. Also note in Jeff's photo that the lower attaching bolt on the adapter to the firewall are smaller. They are in fact header bolts. 6S477 and at least twenty others I've seen have them but only the two lower bolts. The upper two are "normal" , likely because they were the originals reused.
A fully functioning "mico system" provides excellent braking despite it's ugliness.
Randy
Thanks Randy....interesting details. I did not even notice the difference in the bolts but see them in the photo now.
I guess soon enough I will see what the brakes do on this car.
I guess one added follow up question here is how to bleed the actual master cylinder would be good to know since I never used this one. I assume the bleeder on top serves for that function?
Yes it is for bleeding the master. Very convenient.
Ok thanks....will see how it goes.
Bob ,
The fill cap on the master picture you posted is not consistent with originals like the "square top" in Jeff's photo. The "D shaped" ring on the fluid transfer tube is also not typical to "production" masters on original cars. I have only seen one ring on all those I've looked at since '74.
Randy
Quote from: gt350hr on March 13, 2018, 10:28:28 AM
Bob ,
The fill cap on the master picture you posted is not consistent with originals like the "square top" in Jeff's photo. The "D shaped" ring on the fluid transfer tube is also not typical to "production" masters on original cars. I have only seen one ring on all those I've looked at since '74.
Randy
Randy, I have seen a number of the tube like id tags before on various survivor like H cars over the years. I have seen enough in those kind of context that it is the reason for my opinion. Maybe not on all cars but at least on a few. Part of the reason for my opinion is the fact that when a Mico needed to be replaced it wasn't all that common to know where to get another so they were typically replaced with a Ford Master then a Mico so finding one still on a car that was meant to have one is more the exception then the rule IMO. When you do find them they are mostly originals. My first experience with a Hertz car was around 73/74 also. We replaced the mico off my family members car thinking it was some kind of jerry rigged replacement. ;D I do however agree with the fill cap style not being typical and is some kind of replacement done when the other was lost or replaced because the square style was harder to take off in real world usage . The picture was more for the blue anodized cap example being discussed at the time.
Bob ,
No problem , I always respect your observations. Mine for example had never been off of the car when I bought it in '74 and it wasn't there. I looked at an easy 20 Hertz cars before I bought 477. None had the ring. It wasn't until later when I saw the ring on one car and that is the only one "I" have ever seen. Because of that "I" thought the I.D. ring was an oddity. I am adjusting my opinion to "some with and some without". The NOS unit I bought from Ford ( around $34) in late '74 did not have the I.D ring either. I think I still have the receipt. LOL
Thanks for straightening me out!
Randy
I bought 550 in 1967, and it had no I D ring on the transfer tube. I've still got that master cylinder, although it has a big hole in it, from a clutch explosion back in 1983. Ron
Adding a photo of it installed now.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/806/41246338521_a073cae74c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25QNgrB)IMG_0627 (https://flic.kr/p/25QNgrB) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
Looks better than new, fantastic job
Marcus-
This may be a little late--
But here are pics of mine (before we re-did it)-
Note metal ID band
Also regarding bleeding the unit-- I had a very in-depth conversation with Brad at MICO-
These were quickie notes that I took during the call last summer--
Note that it is very important to bench bleed BEFORE you install it-- (it's possible to do once in car -- but tough and results vary)
Excuse the shorthand note taking---
Conversation with Brad at Mico (Technical help) last summer--
Need part number on front of unit — (not numbers on sides)— Those are casting #'s
Can order a rebuild kit —(3 week lead time)-
but may not need See notes below-
Brad at Mico
1 800 477 6426
bstage@mico.com
Most likely needs to be Bench Bleed-
Possible to do while in the car but many times you can not-
From a bleeder on the unit
Run a nylon tube that goes below the reservoir (so it can be bled) — Pump till all bubbles out— Must hit hard stop or useless process-
Then keep hitting hard stop—
Could take 15 –25 times
After no bubbles — Need to do another 10 times!
The idea is that you are putting velocity of fluid through that catch air bubbles— (vs pushing air bubbles)
Very difficult to do compared to a normal master cylinder-
Measure the pushrod stroke— Needs to be 1.5" of travel (or it is fruitless)-
If poor results then you must bench bleed by removing master cylinder and carefully putting in vice (no scratchy)
— Put a fitting at outlet to put hose back into reservoirs with dowel then use to push it- always to hard stop —
Then re-install and bleed some more-
This is exactly how I was instructed-- We did it and it worked-- (don't shoot the messenger :) )
Can buy a rebuild kit once we know the part # of Mico Unit which is located at end of unit-
I hope that helps either you or others!!
Car stops fine-- but it's a "different" feel then the regular Mustang masters-
Good Luck!!
Jim
Cant post pic -- >:(
Quote from: Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas on April 05, 2018, 11:57:12 AM
Looks better than new, fantastic job
That's because there is no sound deadener /sealer on the firewall or around the unit (remnants after Ford unit was replaced) like the messy job that the factory did.