Hi all,
Has any one done a side-by-side comparison between an original/servive part HiPo cable to a repop? It would be valuable to be able to ID a repop. Finding close images of repop is difficult, but I did find a close up knob. The repop knob has a narrow rib and wider gap between ribs, especially when compared to original. Attached are two images for comparison. Are there other differences that can be shared?
Thank
Cory
The "C" font looks different. And patina.
There is few differences, "C" font, groove shapes and just overall finish. I think a nice original with some Patina is the way to go
I agree the character "C" is different, but the differences to me are pretty subtle and difficult to describe for someone to be able to detect the difference. The narrower ribs on the repop knob is much easier to see and discribe.
Here is a confirmed repop, showing the knob with narrow ribs. Also, notice the bezel behind the knob is a dull finish , not chrome or shiny. (Thanks Brian for image.)
Thanks
Cory
Quote from: 6s1640 on February 20, 2024, 10:52:18 PM
Hi all,
Has any one done a side-by-side comparison between an original/servive part HiPo cable to a repop? It would be valuable to be able to ID a repop. Finding close images of repop is difficult, but I did find a close up knob. The repop knob has a narrow rib and wider gap between ribs, especially when compared to original. Attached are two images for comparison. Are there other differences that can be shared?
Thank
Cory
Original choke cable has a metal staple wrapped around the rubber tube sheath where armored cable comes out of the rubber tube at the carb end. You can source the staple so as to add to the repro by taking one off of a donor heater control or vent control cable.
Hi Bob,
Putting the heater control staple on my original HiPo cable is on my to do list.
Thanks
Cory
Quote from: 6s1640 on February 20, 2024, 11:17:39 PM
I agree the character "C" is different, but the differences to me are pretty subtle. The narrower ribs on the repop knob is much easier to see.
Here is a confirmed repop, showing the knob with narrow ribs. Also, notice the bezel behind the knob is a dull finish , not chrome or shiny. (Thanks Brian for image.)
Thanks
Cory
Apparently not all repros are the same ether . I have some 20 something year older repro cables with the ribs on the knobs that are not near as widely spaced as your confirmed repro but slightly narrower then the wider original. Those can be easily confused as I had to study them for a minute side by side to compare and see the difference. Just pointing out so as to add to the discussion.
I also see the small "tang" on the original is bent as a radius were the repop is straight. See attached images.
Cory
Hi Bob, can you post an image so we can see the differences?
Thanks
Cory
Quote from: 6s1640 on February 20, 2024, 11:34:42 PM
Hi Bob, can you post an image so we can see the differences?
Thanks
Cory
I'll add it to my to do list ;D
Thread of cable housing where the cable screws into bracket is a visibly very course thread on original and a finer probably metric thread on the repro. Shiny metal round bezel that the cable wire threads into and the plastic knob sits against when pushed all the way in is thicker and has slightly rounder edges compared to the thinner slightly sharper side edges of the repro. Probably another example of a so called metric equivalent conversion when they were made up off shore.
Hi Bob, good eye on the threads. Brian will get me a clearer image of repop threads tomorrow night, but this is what I have now. Even with bad image you can see difference. Nice
Cory
Here is side-by-side of the cable bezel. I'll see if Brian can get me a clear image of the bezel, but you can see the differences that Bob describes.
Cory
Keep in mind that there were a few Ford vehicles of the period that used choke cables with the same knob. Only the brackets and length of the cable differed based on vehicle model.
Quote from: NC TRACKRAT on February 21, 2024, 04:49:51 PM
Keep in mind that there were a few Ford vehicles of the period that used choke cables with the same knob. Only the brackets and length of the cable differed based on vehicle model.
Hi NC TRACKRAT,
You are correct. The Mustang cable length is 57.6 inches (MPC shows 57.62 in). The Fairlane is shorter at 38.6 inches for 1964 and 58 inches for 1965 according to Tony Gregory in "The 289 High Performance Mustang". He does mention the brackets are slightly difference but gives no details as to the differences. If anyone can share the differences in the brackets, that would be great. This is needed to distinguish the 1965 Fairlane cable from the Mustang cable. The difference of 0.38 inches is marginal at best to determine the application.
The MPC shows two part numbers for the Mustang and Fairlane cables and brackets. Anyone with a Fairlane bracket?
Thanks
Cory
Hi Cory,
Found this photo of a 65 HiPo Fairlane bracket on the Fairlane Club of America Forum, posted by Bob Mannel...
Wow Dave, you are the man. That is completely different. There should be no confusion there if one finds a HiPo choke cable at a swap meet and has this bracket. I was under the impression the difference was very subtle. This is not.
Thank you
Cory
Here's another one for you. I believe the application may be for Rancheros and/or Falcons. The cable is approximately 49.5 inches long and the bracket dimensions are 1.5 inches for the horizontal leg and 2.0 inches for the vertical leg.
Fascinating topic, on mine it all checks out
Great info
We need to take a lesson from the OREO cookie. Do you like the Oreo or Catalina Crunch better?....I eat Catalina Crunch, because I have to. What would I rather eat? The Oreo. it is the original where the Catalina Crunch is the re-pop. The re-pop is not as good, but if you have to eat/use it, you take what works....
SO, the Oreo/original choke cable assembly is better than the Catalina Crunch, reproduction or copy, but if you only have the repro/Catalina Crunch, then you use it. Maybe someday you will be able to buy a original choke assembly, but I will never go back to the Oreo again.
This was purely a joke post, when today I got out a Catalina Crunch cookie and found this defect, and right away I thought of this post.....hope this gives a little humor to your day. If not then "Excuzzzzzzzzzzzzzzze Meeeeeeee!!!"-Steve Martin
Quote from: 67 GT350 on February 22, 2024, 03:25:15 PM
We need to take a lesson from the OREO cookie. Do you like the Oreo or Catalina Crunch better?....I eat Catalina Crunch, because I have to. What would I rather eat? The Oreo. it is the original where the Catalina Crunch is the re-pop. The re-pop is not as good, but if you have to eat/use it, you take what works....
SO, the Oreo/original choke cable assembly is better than the Catalina Crunch, reproduction or copy, but if you only have the repro/Catalina Crunch, then you use it. Maybe someday you will be able to buy a original choke assembly, but I will never go back to the Oreo again.
This was purely a joke post, when today I got out a Catalina Crunch cookie and found this defect, and right away I thought of this post.....hope this gives a little humor to your day. If not then "Excuzzzzzzzzzzzzzzze Meeeeeeee!!!"-Steve Martin
If you have a original choke cable with a damaged knob or cable you can carefully take some of the nuisance unique items from the original and incorporate them into the repro choke cable so as to make your damaged original virtually whole again.At least from a visual standpoint. That way you can have cake and eat your Oreo too. :D
Original cable threads is 14 TPI, top image, as identified in the MPC. The repop, as measured be Dave, is near 20 TPI, lower image . The finer thread pitch is harder to see in this clearer image.
Cory
as usual, with repops, i went thru several and elected to cleanup my original.