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After pulling out the control valve I immediately found the Ball stud moved way too much with the ball stud floating around.

The long bolt that the adjusting nut spun around and wasn't secured by the roll pin onto the sleeve.

Reassembled and fitted back in and now it works perfectly fine again.

Fired up the engine and bled the system.

Thanks to all who posted suggestions.

Clear caulk similar to silicone. I would advise against using silicone.

This is the rear quarter extension on my 68. I can take a few more this afternoon.

Hi Chris,

If you could post a couple of additional pictures of yours that would be great.

Top and bottom side scoops
Rear quarter end caps
Front nose

Basically everywhere it's caulked.

Thanks

Ross

Keith,

Thanks for the extremely generous off.

Once i'e taken the valve off I'll take a look to see if something sinisterly obvious has gone wrong since I rebuilt it that could be the cause.

I'll keep in touch.

Ross

Keith yes it best done on the bench that's how I did it the first time and all went well.

Rode's isn't a viable option as I'm in Australia.

Yep the collection is growing and the hoists in the garage are filling.

Just need the time to keep driving them.

Well Jeff you helped me out other times too, even when I got you down to San Diego in 2010 to inspect my White/gold 66 GT350H.

I've still got it and its been a great car

Thanks again.

Ross

You'd think I knew that since I spent lots of time on his site and now that you put in front of my nose I remember seeing it before....

Thanks

Thanks Chris and Jeff.

It's a Fastback July 2 build date.

Any pictures of the decal behind the Rear Licence plate ?

If it is a stuck spool valve or possibly even an issue with the reaction valve I'm considering just removing the control valve body and pulling that down.

Does anyone see an issue with doing this and leaving the the ball stud assembly fitted thereby leaving it in place and with the ball stud fitted to the pitman arm?

Hi all,

Can someone post pictures of original locations of the following decals

Trunk - Tyre change
         - Shelby silver decal

Rear Licence Plate - Tie Down Decal

Thanks

Ross

Sometimes what's obvious can be missed but thanks for the word of caution just the same.

Once sorted I will get back on to the forum and let everyone know for future reference.

Kurt, thanks for your suggestion.

I don't think it will be the spring adjustment or spring itself as it's a new spring and the adjustment was set to the correct tolerance at the time of rebuilding the control valve.

However it's easy enough take off the cap and check so I'll check.

Ross

If the spool valve is in fact stuck is there any way of freeing without pulling it apart as I had rebuilt the valve 6 months before parking it for 3 years

if tried turning the steering from left to right repeatedly with no luck.

Just trying to avoid pulling it all apart again.

My power steering on my GT500KR was perfect when I parked the car 3 years ago but  now its assisted turning right but turning left it feels like there's no assistance at all.

I rebuilt the control valve 6 months before parking the car up for 3 years and everything was fine.

Now I assumed that air must've gotten in somewhere as a result of a low pressure hose leak. When i try to bleed the system by turning left to right with the wheels off the ground all feels good but its leaking from the low pressure hose.

Putting it back on the ground and its still the same...easy turning right but rock hard turning left.

I've got the carby off for a clean and rebuild so I'll sort the leak out once its back on the car and running.

Other than the leaking low pressure hose, does anyone have any ideas as to what the cause may be??

Anyone have a photo please?

Steve

Just a long distance one at the moment.

Bob it looks like a Pidgeon porthole hood in that picture.

Maybe we can start a thread on this again as there was a great one in SAAC 1.0