Messages

Yes, the pull knob. And thank you for that info.

I just bought an oem left hand cold air vent for the car. Looks to be in great shape. None was installed during assembly. I cannot seem to find the screw type to bolt the vent bracket to the underside of the dash. They sell the three nuts to attach it to the cowl but nothing for the bracket. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you gentlemen.  I will not be adding any rubber cap or grommet therefore.  So it is just a small hole in the carpet and the metal dimmer switch and nothing else.  I am good with that.  Has a more Mad Max wasteland feel about it.  Plus it would be added weight to the car no matter how infinitesimal.

Fancy seeing me in this section of the boards.  That said, anyone here a bit neurotic about having the rubber cap on the high beam switch and the grommet that is embedded in the carpet?  I am considering getting them for the Hertz.  Along with some other missing parts and pieces like the battery shield that mounts to the inner fender apron to prevent the positive from sparking upon removal.  Keep in mind that Legendary Motor Car did all of the body and paint.  I was a poor struggling lawyer back then so I had to pull the car.  Two assemblers came and went to get the car road worthy but they were not Mustang guys so some things were hit and miss.  I am aiming to correct the missing stuff.  A fire has been lit under me.  Finally. 

I don't, but I did own a 67 that was 1424, my 70 Boss 302 is 142407, and my Laguna Seca is 1969

That is rather ironic for your Laguna.  It has the 1969 livery C stripes.  Weird.  In a good way.

I take it that what you did is called a rollerized setup.

I was put to shame the other day when my friend came over and asked if I knew the Ford VIN on 843. I had no idea. I have it memorized now. He was pointing out all these date codes on parts of the inner fender. Man oh man my ignorance would fill a book.

Look how that thing is packed in there. Must be a nightmare come true to do work under the hood. Not detracting from the engine but wow as far as work conditions presented.

Thanks for the info Bob! I believe I can remove the bar next time myself. I could do that and bring it over to a welder to add the reinforcement. I have to get a clutch pedal spring as well.

That is the way I have it currently set up. Your observation makes sense.

The problem has been fixed. My buddy came over and noticed that there were two adjustment points upper and lower on the equalizer bar. That wasn't the problem. The problem was that the z bar had been intentionally bent to accommodate a Lakewood bell housing that my father insisted be put on the car. As a result the lower rod was permanently at what looked like a 30 degree angle from straight. He took the bar off and brought it back to his garage and used a vice to secure it and bend the lower bar straight. There was about an inch and a half that was pushed away from the scattershield. He also noted some spring was missing that is supposed to bring the clutch pedal up to be even with the brake pedal.  I thought it was normal for the pedal to drop down with about an inch of play. Apparently not. Here are some pics. Car drives nice now. I let him drive it and he got on it. I drive like a grannie but it was nice to see how responsive the car was and how fast it goes. He was driving it more like it should be driven. Thank you all for your input!

Had a friend come over who knows Mustangs and said the equalizer bar is bent and the lower connection rod does not engage straight but off at an angle.  It is also touching the header very closely.  I am inclined to get a fortified bar this time around and he will install or I will install under his watchful eyes.
Was looking into this...
https://opentrackerracing.com/shop/mustang-roller-z-bar-and-clutch-rods-289-302-hi-po-small-block-v8-1965-1966/

Ray Brown lap belts.  The flat clip next to the door with the fastening latch side hooked to the driveshaft tunnel or vice versa?  I have seen it both ways. 

I plan to take the car over to East Dundee.  It's going to cost but better to find out than me troubleshoot in the dark.  My mind tends to switch off when it comes to clutch forks and linkages.  It might as well be magic where I'm concerned.  I suppose I could take a deep dive into the subject matter but I'm taking the easy way this time.  Cobra Automotive said they would have to check for anything heavy duty manual because according to them, these days many are going with hydraulic clutches (even in their race cars) which surprised me.  I distinctly remember reading once that Cobra Automotive went with mechanical fuel pumps over electric fuel pumps in their race cars for reasons of greater reliability.  I would have thought that philosophy would have spilled over onto clutches.  Maybe not.

Thank you gentlemen.  I am overwhelmed with the great response.  Since 843 is a day two car I am going to go for upgrades.  The required work and replacement is over my head.  If I tried it I would screw it up somehow.  Cobra Automotive will charge to the rescue with their parts.  I have used them in the past and love the whole outfit.  I still dwell on those Trans Am lug nuts they sold me.  They look so choice on the Torqs.  I suppose when the term "twist" is used in reference to the Z bar it isn't some shifting of where it might be bolted to but an actual bending or distortion of the metal in the bar.  My best option is to get the Cobra Automotive parts and bring the car over to East Dundee's Mustang Restorations.  I will likely take the hit on labor but better that than trying a little science experiment in my garage.    The car was originally an automatic.  I cannot state where they pedal assembly came from.  Thank you all for your helpful input.