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More like a nightmare.  I'm not a big fan of radical mods.  I don't even like Elenore.

I pray that is anything but a real Shelby.

I would replace the bushing as both the idler arm and the pitman arm are unique Shelby parts.  Theyr are different in length from the standard Mustang parts.  DO NOT mix the two together.  I think the bushings are the same however.  Some forty years ago when I replaced the one in 817, Moog had a roller bearing replacement which I used.  It's been fine ever since as there was no rubber to rot away.  I'm sure that part has long since been discontinued...

I agree, the rear seat dimensions are all the same.  It should pretty much be a drop in.  The originals were rivited to the interior fiberglass quarter panels.  Not wanting to desicrate my virgin inner quarters, I build a couple of brackets out of aluminum extrusion.  The brackets were screwed in to the fold down hinge.  Two oval head Phillips screws and finishing washers (hardware store stuff) per side hold the tray to the brackets.  The only thing else I did was to fabricate a block and attach it to the rear lip of the tray (centered of course) to keep the rear trap door from rattling around.  I got my tray from Branda. You can see the finished result on my G.T.500 opening page on my website.

I fixed the hot "arse" issue another way. Dynamat.  The entire vehicle except the trunk was done. I didn't want it to be seen but it made sense to do during the restoration.

I like the package tray idea. It keeps folks guessing. 

shelbydoug,

I made the same decision to put a '66 package tray in my '67 G.T.500 to prevent my 235R-60-15 tires from hitting the fender lips.  That also took care of passengers burning their backsides when the seats got too hot from the mufflers which are located directly under the rear seats.  Turns out that the rear seat dimensions are all the same from '65 though '70 for Mustangs.  I've used this setup for many years now with no issues.

Fair67,

Check with Cobra Automotive for replacement shoes and pads that are an upgrade from stock but don't need to heat up to stop the car.  They sold me a set last year which I'm very happy with.  And they didn't break the bank either.

Speaking of VIN tags not matching the car they are attached to there is this story.  There is an owner of a '67 G.T.500 clone/tribute/recreation here in southeastern PA.  When he showed up at a car show, I went over to take a look at it.  I inspected the Shelby VIN tag and discovered that the the number ended in 03226.  When I called the owner on it, he was amazed that I had noticed and told me that I was the first person in 13 years to notice.  He wanted to know how I knew that there were only 3225 built.  I told him that you do learn a few things after owning one for over 40years.  Aside from the fact that this guy had parked with the original Shelbys there are a couple of other things going on here, two of which are fraud and violation of federal law by altering a vehicle's VIN.

This discussion reminds me of an incident back in the mid '70s when I was looking for a nice Shelby to buy.  I found an add in the local paper for a 1966 G.T.350.  I called the phone number and spoke to the owner.  One of my first questions was what was the VIN.  The owner rattled of a Mustang VIN.  When I told him that that wasn't a Shelby VIN he assured me that the car was indeed a Shelby, it just never made it to California.  End of conversation.  Fortunately I hadn't gotten my hopes up too high.

The only other '67 on display there was Roy Simkins #3040 GT500. He was nowhere to be found all day either.

Rich,

I thought you had my phone number.  You know I'm only a phone call away.  any it is always good talking with you.

I first me Tony at the Waterbury Show & Go in 1976 (or was that the Danbury Show & Go?) where I bought my first Shelby parts, a set of small block Cobra rocker covers for the 260 in my 64 1/2 Mustang.  He was selling out of the back of a Ford Station Wagon at that time.  Over the years he became a friend and he knew me by sight if not always by name.  I watched his business grow through the years until it became what it is today. I'd always look forward to stopping in to chat with him at Carlisle.  Our conversations covered many topics not just cars.

I will miss seeing and talking to you at the shows my friend.  I hope you are somewhere up above tearing down the highway in your Shelby.  My deepest sympathies to the entire Branda family.

Chuck,

817 also has overrides.  And over 100K miles.  It too is a driver and has a 50 year patina to it.  Yes, the hood is all metal.

I met you at Mid Ohio in 2016.  The following 12 Hertz cars were in attendance: SFM6S452, SFM6S555, SFM6S679, SFM6S817, SFM6S818, SFM6S1431, SFM6S1591, SFM6S1654, SFM6S1870, SFM6S1916 , SFM6S1938, SFM6S1963, SFM6S1964.

Yes, it does help.  14% is good enough for me as I'm not going concurs with this car.  Thanks for the detailed response.

Thanks, Jeff.

So what have you seen as a typical interval head casting to block casting to assembly date?

Our Hertz car (6S817) has been in the family for over 40 years.  The original block came with the car when we purchased it.  I'm in the process of collecting parts for it.  The block casting date is 5K23 and the assembly date appears to be 5L3.  There is an additional character at the end of the date code that appears to be a "T".  Anyone know what that could possibly stand for?

I have also located a set of heads that are date coded 5H23 & 5H26.  Would these within the accepted time frame for a proper assembly?

Thanks.

Roy Simkins
rsimkins@comcast.net
SFM6S817, 67400F7A03040
http://www.S-TechEnt.com/Shelby.htm