News:

We have implemented a Photo Gallery for hosting images right here on SAACFORUM. Check the How-To in News from HQ

Main Menu

1968 KR Tilt Motor

Started by mark89a, September 09, 2022, 03:58:27 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

mark89a

I have been going thru the tilt-away system on my 1968 GT500KR and one of my first tests was the vacuum motor.  I put vacuum to it with a handpump and got nothing.  Then I connected an AC vacuum pump with a gauge inline between the vacuum pump and the KR's vacuum motor.   I started with 5 in Hg and went up to 25 in Hg of vacuum and got no movement from the pawl, which was fully extended and tied to a weight.  When I pushed the pawl all the way in, the vacuum held and I could not pull the pawl back out without releasing vacuum.  I'm assuming the KR's vacuum motor is bad?  Can it be rebuilt or does anyone perform this service?

Coralsnake

Im not aware of anyone rebuilding any of underdash components for a tilt, with the exception of the column

When you pull on the cable in the column does the wheel release?

Did you check the solenoid to make sure its functioning properly?

Do you have vacuum from the reservoir under the dash before reaching the tilt mechanism?
The original Influencer, check out www.thecoralsnake.com

Royce Peterson

Tony Augustine rebuilds the tilt away steering columns for 1967 - 69 Ford Products. The actuator can be rebuilt. PM me for contact info.
1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock

mark89a

When I pull on the cable manually, the steering wheel pops up as it's supposed to.  I am aware of a leak in the vacuum canister, which is why I was applying vacuum with the underdash assembly out of the car.  I checked the solenoid and relay according the pamphlet-style manual and your coral snake website.  They appear to be functioning properly.  The only thing not happening is the metal pawl is not retracting into the vacuum motor.

Coralsnake

If thats true there a rubber seal around the diaphragm. Thats the only thing holding the air pressure. I would say you have to try sleeve the sides or replace the canister.

Im pretty sure that entire tilt mechanism has to be grounded.
The original Influencer, check out www.thecoralsnake.com

FL SAAC

Living RENT FREE in your minds

All Time Post Count King !

Home of the "Amazing Hertz 3 + 1 Musketeers"

FL SAAC Simply the Best, much Better than ALL the Rest.

I have all UNGOLD cars

I am certainly not a Shelby Expert

mark89a

I have the bracket grounded to a 12V battery.  The relay clicks when I apply positive to #1 and when I release power.  I can tell the solenoid is working since I have Tee'd in vacuum gauges on both sides of it and can see vacuum on both sides after I apply power (with the vacuum motor hose plugged).  Thank you

mark89a

Thank you.  I'll shoot Tony a message.

Coralsnake

The original Influencer, check out www.thecoralsnake.com


Royce Peterson

Quote from: Coralsnake on September 09, 2022, 07:45:36 PM
This one is 67 only but would probably work

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234672354182?hash=item36a38ff386:g:jGcAAOSwxIhjB4v0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoN%2Bhqx%2F4A3MKMM1KNjNKXtFU0aVFKS0PPjM7C6k1gyt%2BA6BIq44XBkaLfEiX7SE2QUa%2FZ%2B2ZQRMMbrVKL5%2BUy6KKUBGX2wNOzA%2FTjauK0Rr6uUMkSa2OD1tYqZOetNDUukfLCJX%2BeZMelY975gc3SSDEZVqkhGyJYbeviGK412VnGNOYP0qap0mwCLzTYDe5XEqxDm67O%2BuxgAKfhu5V%2FCk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7yTnMrkYA

That one is 1967 - 68. The 1969 version has a different part number but the only difference is the black outer case.

If you take the actuator off its bracket and disconnect the connector you can see it is made to be disassembled. It can be disassembled easily and lubed with Vaseline. I've had great success doing that. They start working again after a good lube. 
1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock

mark89a

Interestingly, I just talked with a guy at a car show and he suggested lubing up the inside of the cylinder walls with silicone grease.  The actuator actually comes apart very easy, so it's obviously engineered to be serviceable.  Anyways, I lubed it up and it works now!  I'll probably still call Tony on Monday because the switch inside has excessive Ohms when closed and it doesn't appear to be easily serviceable.

mark89a

I saw that one on eBay but it doesn't have the safety switch built into it.  I'm guessing 67's didn't have one, or it was someplace else?  I could likely retrofit a safety switch into that NOS one, except the one in my existing actuator apparently has some burned contacts, as evidenced by high ohm readings.

Coralsnake

The 1967 one I posted is different.
The original Influencer, check out www.thecoralsnake.com

Royce Peterson

#14
Quote from: mark89a on September 11, 2022, 05:32:36 PM
I saw that one on eBay but it doesn't have the safety switch built into it.  I'm guessing 67's didn't have one, or it was someplace else?  I could likely retrofit a safety switch into that NOS one, except the one in my existing actuator apparently has some burned contacts, as evidenced by high ohm readings.

I remembered wrong - oldtimers disease I guess. The '67 unit is white like the '68 but doesn't have the switch as you noted. The '68 and '69 actuators are identical other than the '69 is black plastic.

Here's a picture of a '68 unit that I am working on. Someone installed a '69 vacuum motor. As you can see it has a '69 Model Year (8KB = October, second week, 1968) date code.
1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock