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Issue found: Faulty light bulb. It's a brand new LED replacement (1004 style) that's supposed to get + and - from the 2 bottom contacts, with the metal body being separate or isolated from the electronics.  In this case, the LED was made incorrectly and was getting its ground from the metal body along with one of the bottom contacts.  Since the bulb socket is grounded, that explains why the light wouldn't turn off.  Hope this helps anyone that runs into this issue.

Hi - I have a '69 Shelby with a glove box/map light that won't turn off.  It has a switched ground to turn it on and off by the glove box pin switch and the mechanical switch on the light housing.  The thing is, it works perfectly when the clock dash-panel isn't fully installed (wired but pulled away from dash for testing). Once installed, the light is always on because it's being grounded by the metal construction of everything around it, screws, metal clock panel, light housing, and socket.  My assembly manual doesn't specify but I'm wondering if there should be a gasket or isolator somewhere between these parts?  Anyone else run into this problem?

Yes

Great, thanks for your help!!

Gotcha, are you referring to something like these?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-356640-s100?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJTfiw5y6IAXjOLFHuwShU1PLyyesz5iCS8iQFnx0Cf9iEbMyhYDxxRoCUCIQAvD_BwE

1969 GT350 with A/C:  How is the Engine Gauge Feed Harness and a/c wire secured along the valve cover leading back towards the firewall?  My assembly manual is to faded to see how these are managed.  I've heard there's a single rubber-coated clip fastened by the center valve cover bolt.  Does that sound correct? Thanks and have a great day!

Thanks a lot guys, that helps explain quite a bit, cheers!

I'm chipping away at 55 years of wiring butchery on this '69 Shelby and found this resistor mounted inside the engine bay.  Someone hacked into the dash harness and ran a couple of pink wires to it.  I'm guessing this wasn't original equipment? I'm hoping someone can confirm. 

By the way, one of the pink wires is spiced into a red/green wire leading to the ignition switch, the other is spliced into a brown wire that shares the same plug terminal with the factory resistor wire. This car has a tach and it looks like the factory pink resistor wire leads to it. 

Yes exactly. You removed the original green/red 16 gages. Fold it and tape it. Install the intermédiaire one green/red 14 gages wire at the brake switch as 6 bulbs brake light pull more load.

Patrick

Ok, thanks!  I was wondering what was the point of using a different wire but it is heavier gauge and with the Shelby lights, that makes perfect sense.

Ok, just to clarify, you're saying to take the green/red tracer wire from the intermediate harness (1) and put it in place of the green/red wire (2) that's in the stop-lamp switch plug (coming from main dash harness). Would I then just tape off/clip the unused green/red wire from the main harness? From what I can see on my schematic, this original wire (2) would be pulling power from the headlamp switch.  I take it that the intermediate harness green/red wire will provide power from a different source?

Interesting, thanks, I'll have to check into that.

Hi all,
I'm replacing a "69-70 SHELBY DRIVING LIGHT UNDER DASH INTERMEDIATE WIRING HARNESS."

The original intermediate harness that I'm removing from the car has a green wire with red tracer connected to the brake switch plug.  The new intermediate harness has this same wire, green with red tracer (maybe 14 gauge), with a 90-degree spade terminal.  I'm attaching a stock photo of the harness showing the wire.  After going through numerous schematics, I can't confirm that this is correct?  I've also replaced the main dash harness that already has the brake switch plug wired up to both terminals (solid green and  a green wire/red tracer, 16 gauge).

I am pretty sure Shelby did not move the taillight harness, so there has to be an extension.

That's what I'm starting to think too.  The harness manufacturer confirmed that it's made correctly per their specs. 

It's a '69 Shelby Convertible.  Here's the quarter panel, just before I removed it.  You can see the light towards the bottom.

Hi,
I'm installing a new tail light harness and routing it exactly how the old one was in the car (red arrow).  It travels from the trunk, over the fender well and behind the rear window track assembly (closer to the outside sheet metal). Now that it's in there, I see that the wire that goes to the quarter-panel light is a little too short to reach (black/blue tracer). I went back to the old original harness and noticed that someone had lengthened that wire a few inches. Now I'm wondering, should the harness be routed in FRONT of the window track (see blue dotted line) to move it in closer? This would also line up the harness a lot better with the channel it runs through under the door sill. Does anyone know (or have pics) how Ford would have originally routed this part of the harness? Again, I followed the same path as the old harness but there's no guarantee that it was in there correctly to begin with.  Thanks in advance!

All great info - thanks fellas!