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Interior paint Acrylic Enamel vs, Acrylic Urethane

Started by Corey Bowcutt, April 23, 2024, 12:21:35 PM

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Corey Bowcutt

I am going to be painting the interior pieces of my car soon and looking at paints.  Is there a preferred paint to use to match the original sheen?  The options I am told are acrylic enamel and Acrylic Urethane.  I know the pros and cons of each but most interested in the look and sheen.

Thank you,

Corey

crossboss

Enamel will take longer to 'cure'. Urethane is easier to find and mix. That said, 'I' prefer the enamel. Why? Looks better, more durable and it was the correct type of paint Ford used.
Past owned Shelby's:
1968 GT-350--Gold
1970 GT-500--#3129--Grabber Orange.
Current lifelong projects:
1969 Mustang Fastback/FOX chassis, 5 speed, 4 wheel discs, with a modern Can-Am 494 (Boss 429), Kaase heads, intake with a 1425 cfm 'B' Autolite Inline carb, ala Trans-Am style
1968/70 Olds 442 W-30

KR500

Corey
Acrylic lacquer is what type of interior paint Ford used in the 60's, NOT acrylic enamel. It was a semi gloss formula. Lacquer paint is very easy to spray, but very difficult to find. Acrylic enamel shouldn't be to difficult to source from a paint supplier. Yes it will take a little longer to dry as it is an air dry paint. You can add an hardener to this paint that is a catalyst. This will make the paint cure faster, add gloss ( not what you want in the interior) and make the paint more durable. A full urethane paint has all the same benefits as a hardened enamel with even higher durability, but may be difficult to source in the correct semi gloss formula. Plus a urethane is probably going to cost you more $. With the acrylic lacquer you typical will need color and reducer. Acrylic enamel you will need color and reducer. If you want to catalyze it you would buy some generic hardener. You probably would need to buy some flatterer to get the correct gloss. With full urethane typically you would need to buy everything required all in the same paint brand system. Color, reducer ( it may be an activated reducer)and activator, usually at a higher cost. A word of warning, Catalyzed and Activated paints have stuff in them that is very bad for your health. The acceptable protection to spray these paints are a full paint suit with gloves, eye protection and a supplied fresh air system in a enclosed highly ventilated area. A cheep paint mask just will not cut it! Even with all that protection I usually felt crappy for a day or two after I sprayed an overall vehicle. I don't paint much anymore. 
Rodney Harrold,Ohio SAAC Rep,SAAC 68 Shelby Concourse Judge,68 GT500KR 02267

Corey Bowcutt


crossboss

Quote from: KR500 on April 24, 2024, 09:51:50 AMCorey
Acrylic lacquer is what type of interior paint Ford used in the 60's, NOT acrylic enamel. It was a semi gloss formula. Lacquer paint is very easy to spray, but very difficult to find. Acrylic enamel shouldn't be to difficult to source from a paint supplier. Yes it will take a little longer to dry as it is an air dry paint. You can add an hardener to this paint that is a catalyst. This will make the paint cure faster, add gloss ( not what you want in the interior) and make the paint more durable. A full urethane paint has all the same benefits as a hardened enamel with even higher durability, but may be difficult to source in the correct semi gloss formula. Plus a urethane is probably going to cost you more $. With the acrylic lacquer you typical will need color and reducer. Acrylic enamel you will need color and reducer. If you want to catalyze it you would buy some generic hardener. You probably would need to buy some flatterer to get the correct gloss. With full urethane typically you would need to buy everything required all in the same paint brand system. Color, reducer ( it may be an activated reducer)and activator, usually at a higher cost. A word of warning, Catalyzed and Activated paints have stuff in them that is very bad for your health. The acceptable protection to spray these paints are a full paint suit with gloves, eye protection and a supplied fresh air system in a enclosed highly ventilated area. A cheep paint mask just will not cut it! Even with all that protection I usually felt crappy for a day or two after I sprayed an overall vehicle. I don't paint much anymore. 



You are correct about the interior. My brain fart was thinking of the exterior body paint.
Past owned Shelby's:
1968 GT-350--Gold
1970 GT-500--#3129--Grabber Orange.
Current lifelong projects:
1969 Mustang Fastback/FOX chassis, 5 speed, 4 wheel discs, with a modern Can-Am 494 (Boss 429), Kaase heads, intake with a 1425 cfm 'B' Autolite Inline carb, ala Trans-Am style
1968/70 Olds 442 W-30