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HOW TO IDENTIFY A FORUM TROLL
https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=16401.0

I have not always seen the Stant trademark in the same place and sometimes it is under the gasket where you might only see the outside edge of what you know to be the trademark but it is obscured by the gasket.Others no doubt can be completely obscured. The ones that are clearly seen are the very desirable ones.

Another thing that I have noticed on assemblyline GT350 caps is a distinct gold tint to the ring in the on the outside edge of the emblem design. All of the service NOS caps I have ever seen had only a silver ring.

For originals I've got pictures of the Stant mark surrounded by two circles one in side of the other - Initials in the center. Can't post a picture right at the moment 

Stant trademark is what I have seen too.

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

I could always look for the coil you describe and get it.  They are not expensive.  At least this one wasn't.  It is 1.5 ohms which apparently is recommended for a V8 engine.

Or take off the sticker and leave the rest alone.

* Capacity 7 quarts with oil and filter change per Ford TSB article #2322 published May 1970; add 1 more quart (8 quarts total) if equipped with an external oil cooler.




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The discussion is about a 1968 oil cooler not a 1969 /70.  You are apparently not familiar with the different oil coolers. The 67/68 and the 69/70 oil coolers are completely different shape and consequently have a different capacity. 

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Yes the coil was factory installed on the passenger side. Yes I can see that you are getting power from the coil terminal. I am familiar with your style coil and it has a internal resister so it can be used with the stock resistor wire that steps down the voltage to the coil or with a modified wiring with full 12 volts from the ignition switch bypassing the resister wire wrapped inside the stock wiring harness. The resister inside the aftermarket coil steps down the voltage inside before it gets to the windings. The problem is that if you have a stock wiring harness with the stock resistor wire wrapped inside then your aftermarket coil terminal is getting less then the full 12 volts and consequently since that is where you are getting power for the module is suppling less voltage then what the module needs to work properly. As has been said before sometimes the module will work properly at least for a while with the lower voltage and sometimes it will act up and stop running similar to the symptoms you describe.

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Some of the oil will drain back from the cooler but certainly not all.

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter.

Question from the peanut gallery.  I've never had a car with the oil cooler and never looked into them.  Is it part of the oil change process to drain the cooler?  If so, then I can see adding the additional for the cooler.  But on a normal oil change on a car with an oil cooler, if you can't drain the cooler, you are, 1: Leaving some quantity of old oil in it 2: won't need to add the additional oil.  Unless you have somehow drained the cooler.  Or an I missing something?

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter.

Question from the peanut gallery.  I've never had a car with the oil cooler and never looked into them.  Is it part of the oil change process to drain the cooler?  If so, then I can see adding the additional for the cooler.  But on a normal oil change on a car with an oil cooler, if you can't drain the cooler, you are, 1: Leaving some quantity of old oil in it 2: won't need to add the additional oil.  Unless you have somehow drained the cooler.  Or an I missing something?

Draining the oil cooler and lines is not part of the typical oil change process. Some of the oil will drain back from the cooler but certainly not all. Start with 5 Qts run the engine then check and only add oil if needed. If on a A/C car with oil cooler and the factory short oil filter(for this application) it will probably only need a little extra vs. the longer filter which will require a little more.   

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter. 

Sorry I slipped and didn't mark that they have been sold. Thank you for your interest.

Hi again,
Thanks to Bob and Jeff. This small part is listed as a C9ZZ-10A705-A  did not go any further back and the notes in the MPC do not give any details. My thoughts are much like Bob's If you have the hole in the apron it most likley had a bracket. It must have been
used in 67 then later changed up to a 69 part number. Doubt it is worth doing a survey
over, but nice to know others notice small details.
Thanks again for the shared knowledge!!
R.R.

R.R. to continue with more friendly shared knowledge you should know that the 69 C9ZZ-A bracket is not the same as the 67 bracket. The 69 bracket is a completely different shape. A nice repro of the 69 bracket is also sold by NPD. There is also a 1971-73 bracket that is different yet still.

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

It is pretty simple to figure what wire to use at the ignition switch for full 12 volt power. There is a short wire with a bullet connector that comes off the ignition switch that your tach wire plugs into . You tap into the wire someplace between the ignition switch and the bullet connector and run that wire out to the pertronix. You are all about day 2 modifications so the extra wire should not offend your sensibilities. I would run a black wire so that it blends in more with the existing harness but that is just me. If you want to get creative you can tape wrap the extra wire into the harness at the firewall and let it exit out closer to the coil so that it is harder to distinguish as extra. Best of luck on how ever you decide to solve your problem.

Answer this question first. Is your Pertronix powered at the coil or another place and if so where?
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It has a positive and a negative wire that connect to the little coil terminals and then there is an extra positive wire plug that goes over the little positive post on the coil after the positive and negative wires are attached.  For ignition perhaps?  Then there is the larger coil wire that goes to the distributor that has the same 8 mm thickness as a spark plug wires. 
[/quote] If you are getting power from the coil then your problem may be because the Pertronix is not getting a full 12 volts like the instructions says that is necessary for the module to work properly. The coil source is a cheater way of getting power for the module . It will work but since it is not a full 12 volts (9 1/2 volts I think when key is in on position through the resistor wire) can sometimes cause problems. To get a full 12 volts typically a wire is connected in the harness at the ignition switch shortly BEFORE it turns into resistor wire for the coil and run this extra wire out to the module for power. The problem you describe is a common problem with Pertronix and the change to full 12 volts like the the factory says the module requires is the common way to typically solve it. Another way to get 12 volts out to the module without running a extra wire is to eliminate or bypass the resistor wire in the harness to the coil but then you MUST run a after market coil that has a built in resistor . Most if not all aftermarket coils are made to run on a full 12 volts or the lower voltage of the resistor wire because they have a INTERNAL resistor so only the lower voltage amount gets to the coil windings. If you run a full 12 Volts to a Ford yellow top coil it will heat up to a point that you can't even touch it before failing or exploding!   I don't know how many times I have heard the Pertronix problem stories and getting power at the coil is a root cause on the vast majority.