Messages

I have a fully restored P/S pump AND a restored rack and pinion on my 69 GT500.  The pump is full and I have cycled it to remove air. What I don't have is a working power steering system.  A little help, please.

I have never had a car with a tilt-away column, so I don't know about the nuances of this unit. I had my column professionally restored. Now that I have finished the restoration of the car and driven it, I find that when the steering wheel is in the lock position, there seems to be a lot of side-to-side play of the steering wheel itself. Is this normal, or should it feel as solid as the traditional column?

I am running BF Goodrich 245 60R15.  Does the picture appear to have too much clearance above he tire to you?

In 69, did A.O. Smith drop the front front end?  Right now, my center of fender to floor height is 29 1/2".  Is this correct measurement for a Shelby?  It just "appears" to be higher than I would have expected AND it is much higher than my 69 R code Mach.  I also have a 35 years in business mustang restorer who insist that this is what wrong - his words, not mine - with the car.

1969 GT500, fastback, Dearborn, built mid June 69 - Are there specific locations to place the inspection stickers under the hood?

just added picture

Thanks Bob for the reminder.  I did take it for a drive, for that purpose.  Do you know what the clearance height should be? Do you know the spring height for my springs I was looking in Branda's catalog, and on pages 49 & 50 (Shelby side) there is a segment, by Jeff Bruce, on lowering the A-Arms, and it does specify that it can be performed on the 69 model.  Have you (or anyone else) ever accomplished this mod?

I'm not certain, but I "feel" that my front end height may not be correct at 29 1/2". I rebuilt the car with the front springs that came in the car, BUT the motor was not in at the time. I do know that I had a lot of difficulty (after the motor was installed) in getting the shocks attached.  I did NOT measure the unloaded spring height before installing them. I would like your thoughts, and correct measurements, if you would, PLEASE.

I damaged one stripe and hope someone has a section that they could part with.  I need the section for the drivers side in front of the rear wheel-well.  Color is white.  i only need the one piece

New question on this grey metal piece.  I was informed that the threaded piece on the 69 mirror is a one year only. Can anyone confirm this?  I have an individual with a 67 remote mirror cable that I could disassembly and use, but will it work???  What is the differences between the two?

In a not so simple answer, it is yes they can be removed.  The problem is in the taking one off an old unit. The grey metal has very little flexibility. When spreading the tabs holding the cable wires, it has to be done with the most minimal of separation or they will break. It does not take much effort, so ease and caution are they only way to go.

Decal placement.  Has anyone ever compiled a chart, by year, of where the Shelby specific decals should be placed.  That is where I am in the final throws of getting my car back on the road. I have he "Shelby recommended tire pressure" for the glove box, Shelby Automotive certifies...section 108" - which goes somewhere inside the trunk lid,  and the "engine timing/idle speed" engine spec decal - which I am not sure where it goes.

Has anyone thought of putting together a page for each car showing and identifying where each decal goes.  I know that I would love something like this

I appreciate the help everyone.  The only thing I need is the grey metal cast threaded piece to attach to the cables.  I have all of the rest of the components of the assembly

I totally agree Lincoln.  The body shop did it when they disassembled the door.

The item posted above is exactly what I need.  I will give WCCC a call later today when they open.  Thank you, and Krelboyne