I'm about to have my 70 Shelby GT350 car number 3024 painted. I'm taking it apart for before I drop of to the painter and had a couple of questions.
1. How do I get the Cobra and Shelby emblem off the side of the car? Is it attached from the interior of the car?
2. How do I remove the rear trunk Shelby Emblem?
3. My door tag appears original but in bad shape, recommend masking off for the paint or would you recommend replacing?
4. The area directly behind my front bumper is painted black, I was told it was supposed to be a dark greyish color on the 69's. Is that the same for all 69 Shelbys? What color is it?
5. Any other tips or advice? This isn't a full on concourse paint job, I'm just refreshing the tired paint on this driver car of mine but I'd like to keep things accurate without going too crazy.
Quote from: Fastback66 on September 30, 2018, 03:23:07 PM
I'm about to have my 70 Shelby GT350 car number 3024 painted. I'm taking it apart for before I drop of to the painter and had a couple of questions.
1. How do I get the Cobra and Shelby emblem off the side of the car? Is it attached from the interior of the car?
2. How do I remove the rear trunk Shelby Emblem?
3. My door tag appears original but in bad shape, recommend masking off for the paint or would you recommend replacing?
4. The area directly behind my front bumper is painted black, I was told it was supposed to be a dark greyish color on the 69's. Is that the same for all 69 Shelbys? What color is it?
5. Any other tips or advice? This isn't a full on concourse paint job, I'm just refreshing the tired paint on this driver car of mine but I'd like to keep things accurate without going too crazy.
The emblem and the trunklid mesh /letters is held on with double sided tape. They can be loosened with a heat gun and carefully pried off. It is typical to have to replace with another because the original gets damaged during removal . Shelby parts and restoration sells the most accurate reproduction of the trunklid mesh . You can get new letters and snake emblems from him too. The frame rail behind the front bumper would be most typically black . The firewall back is the place the slop gray paint was used . Firewall forward was a red oxide tint underneath. The engine compartment and the front of the radiator support including the front frame rail was meant to be painted black.
When you mask off the ID tag on a 70 it never looks great so you have to decide . There is not much you can do with a 70 sticker. If you try and remove it you will destroy it . It is designed to render itself useless if taken off . If you are talking about the metal panel that holds the foglights behind the bumper then it is a dark argent like used on the 1970 Mach I side rocker panels. The complete grill ,inside headlight buckets and headlight rings are also the dark gray. The backside of the lower valance was blacked out with semi gloss paint . Inside the area that the turn signal bezels are placed are also blacked out.
Great information and advice. Thank you.
And, Marti Auto Works can reproduce your 1970 door sticker.
The best advise is leave the car alone, once you paint it then everything else will look awful and the can of worms is opened.
It's had a repaint back in the 70's. Can was already open.
QuoteThe best advise is leave the car alone, once you paint it then everything else will look awful and the can of worms is opened.
+1 if the paint is decent. New paint will make everything else look bad ;)
TOB
Do NOT put any tape on that sticker, or you will have to replace it.
Old dogs know that you can tape off a wide area around the factory ID sticker, and roll the tape back as you spray.
Do NOT lay heavy coats of paint around or over the ID sticker, just spray area's around it.
Overspray will blend in by hand rubbing when finished.
Unless your car is rusty, had been painted over before, you should be good
This is the same way, for the most part, painters blend spots on whole panels. They usually find an edge, and then peel back, makes for a nice job.
A blend spray mixture, which kind of melts paint, is sometimes used to melt old and new paint ino a blend.
Other guys herein, that do this daily, could advise if there are other newer methods.
Respectfully submitted,
John
Quote from: Harris Speedster on October 03, 2018, 09:05:31 AM
Do NOT put any tape on that sticker, or you will have to replace it.
Old dogs know that you can tape off a wide area around the factory ID sticker, and roll the tape back as you spray.
Do NOT lay heavy coats of paint around or over the ID sticker, just spray area's around it.
Overspray will blend in by hand rubbing when finished.
Unless your car is rusty, had been painted over before, you should be good
This is the same way, for the most part, painters blend spots on whole panels. They usually find an edge, and then peel back, makes for a nice job.
A blend spray mixture, which kind of melts paint, is sometimes used to melt old and new paint ino a blend.
Other guys herein, that do this daily, could advise if there are other newer methods.
Respectfully submitted,
John
John, you can mask the sticker but if the tape substantially pulls up on the sticker is when the VOID warning comes through like when you try to peel it off. To be on the save side many that do this paper the center of the sticker and tape the edges to protect it from overspray . I haven't seen one done I really like regardless . But that is just me.
Thanks gents for the advice. I just want to confirm that the Snake and "Shelby" emblem on the side quarter behind the rear side window is stuck to the car with adhesive and not posts?
Thanks again for all the great information.
After she's painted you should also have her painted in this manner as well...
Quote from: Harris Speedster on October 03, 2018, 09:05:31 AM
Do NOT put any tape on that sticker, or you will have to replace it.
Old dogs know that you can tape off a wide area around the factory ID sticker, and roll the tape back as you spray.
Do NOT lay heavy coats of paint around or over the ID sticker, just spray area's around it.
Overspray will blend in by hand rubbing when finished.
Unless your car is rusty, had been painted over before, you should be good
This is the same way, for the most part, painters blend spots on whole panels. They usually find an edge, and then peel back, makes for a nice job.
A blend spray mixture, which kind of melts paint, is sometimes used to melt old and new paint ino a blend.
Other guys herein, that do this daily, could advise if there are other newer methods.
Respectfully submitted,
John
Do you think that door tag I posted a picture of is worth saving? Or would I be better off replacing it?
Bob, you are correct too.
I found that the paint line build up around the tag is not flattering, just like you..
I had bad luck with pulling tape from the edges of the ID sticker every time I tried it.
masking off 3 -4 inches from it, and rolling the tape>>> has worked for me.
This needs to be done on newer cars, pretty much all of them>>> once you tape them>>> geez they VOID themselves like you say.
Whatever he chooses, hope it works and he keeps his original tag,
Fastback 66, keep the original tag, always the best, even if its a little tattered.
Keep us informed with what you do, and how you do it>>>
With respect,
John
Quote from: Harris Speedster on October 03, 2018, 04:42:22 PM
Bob, you are correct too.
I found that the paint line build up around the tag is not flattering, just like you..
I had bad luck with pulling tape from the edges of the ID sticker every time I tried it.
masking off 3 -4 inches from it, and rolling the tape>>> has worked for me.
This needs to be done on newer cars, pretty much all of them>>> once you tape them>>> geez they VOID themselves like you say.
Whatever he chooses, hope it works and he keeps his original tag,
Fastback 66, keep the original tag, always the best, even if its a little tattered.
Keep us informed with what you do, and how you do it>>>
With respect,
John
I resemble that remark. :D
Quote from: deathsled on October 03, 2018, 03:29:16 PM
After she's painted you should also have her painted in this manner as well...
Great picture.
I just want to confirm that these are held on via adhesive vice posts? Thanks
Quote from: Fastback66 on October 03, 2018, 07:32:21 PM
I just want to confirm that these are held on via adhesive vice posts? Thanks
As mentioned in reply #1 . They are not held on with adhesive from the factory because they are held on with double sided tape. You can use adhesive to re apply them if in good enough condition.
FYI replacements typically come with double sided tape also. It was good enough for a almost 50 year old install on many instances so it should be good for that many more . ;)
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 03, 2018, 07:38:40 PM
Quote from: Fastback66 on October 03, 2018, 07:32:21 PM
I just want to confirm that these are held on via adhesive vice posts? Thanks
As mentioned in reply #1 . They are not held on with adhesive from the factory because they are held on with double sided tape. You can use adhesive to re apply them if in good enough condition.
Ok, great. I just wanted to ensure I understood you correctly before I started to take them off. Thanks again.
Quote from: Fastback66 on October 03, 2018, 07:45:38 PM
Ok, great. I just wanted to ensure I understood you correctly before I started to take them off. Thanks again.
You can use some dental floss to run behind the emblems and cut the tape then remove the emblems. Sometimes a little heat from a hair drier helps ;)
Reduces the chance of doing any damage. Done it on new cars often also - removing emblems and such
And by all means paint it Calypso Coral.
QuoteAnd by all means paint it Calypso Coral.
Or Competition Red... ;)
TOB
Quote from: J_Speegle on October 04, 2018, 03:56:49 AM
Quote from: Fastback66 on October 03, 2018, 07:45:38 PM
Ok, great. I just wanted to ensure I understood you correctly before I started to take them off. Thanks again.
You can use some dental floss to run behind the emblems and cut the tape then remove the emblems. Sometimes a little heat from a hair drier helps ;)
Reduces the chance of doing any damage. Done it on new cars often also - removing emblems and such
I used your idea but with fishing line...worked like a charm...and without heat! Thanks!
Quote from: TOBKOB on October 04, 2018, 05:50:05 PM
QuoteAnd by all means paint it Calypso Coral.
Or Competition Red... ;)
TOB
I've been trying to decide for months if I should go with Calypso Coral or Competition Red...tough decision but I decided to go with Poppy Red.
QuoteI've been trying to decide for months if I should go with Calypso Coral or Competition Red...tough decision but I decided to go with Poppy Red.
... or vermillion (vermilion)... ;)
LOL ;D
TOB
What shade are the stripes on the 70 hood?
What shade of black is the area around the taillights?
Thanks
Quote from: Fastback66 on October 06, 2018, 02:23:11 PM
What shade of black is the area around the taillights?
Shade? Would describe it as eggshell to slightly more gloss
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-061018150209.jpeg)
This original paint car is likely a bit glossier from wiping and cleaning - polishing the paint - over time as well as the lighting and angle
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-061018150152.jpeg)
Quote from: Fastback66 on October 06, 2018, 02:23:11 PM
What shade are the stripes on the 70 hood?
What shade of black is the area around the taillights?
Thanks
I believe the hood stripes were gloss black with the exception of Black Jade which was done in a matte black.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 30, 2018, 03:54:56 PM
Quote from: Fastback66 on September 30, 2018, 03:23:07 PM
I'm about to have my 70 Shelby GT350 car number 3024 painted. I'm taking it apart for before I drop of to the painter and had a couple of questions.
1. How do I get the Cobra and Shelby emblem off the side of the car? Is it attached from the interior of the car?
2. How do I remove the rear trunk Shelby Emblem?
3. My door tag appears original but in bad shape, recommend masking off for the paint or would you recommend replacing?
4. The area directly behind my front bumper is painted black, I was told it was supposed to be a dark greyish color on the 69's. Is that the same for all 69 Shelbys? What color is it?
5. Any other tips or advice? This isn't a full on concourse paint job, I'm just refreshing the tired paint on this driver car of mine but I'd like to keep things accurate without going too crazy.
The emblem and the trunklid mesh /letters is held on with double sided tape. They can be loosened with a heat gun and carefully pried off. It is typical to have to replace with another because the original gets damaged during removal . Shelby parts and restoration sells the most accurate reproduction of the trunklid mesh . You can get new letters and snake emblems from him too. The frame rail behind the front bumper would be most typically black . The firewall back is the place the slop gray paint was used . Firewall forward was a red oxide tint underneath. The engine compartment and the front of the radiator support including the front frame rail was meant to be painted black.
I just want to make sure I understand and that we're talking about the same parts; to confirm the grill in painted the argent grey color, does that include the top grill bracket? Mine is a lighter grey/almost silver. Appears to be repainted at some point, what's the correct color for that part. I've seen various colors online and I have no idea what is actually correct.
The part where the grill sits (not sure of the correct nomenclature of the part) as shown in the picture is painted black on my car..this should be argent grey as well?
Thanks
Quote from: Fastback66 on October 08, 2018, 08:32:48 AM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 30, 2018, 03:54:56 PM
Quote from: Fastback66 on September 30, 2018, 03:23:07 PM
I'm about to have my 70 Shelby GT350 car number 3024 painted. I'm taking it apart for before I drop of to the painter and had a couple of questions.
1. How do I get the Cobra and Shelby emblem off the side of the car? Is it attached from the interior of the car?
2. How do I remove the rear trunk Shelby Emblem?
3. My door tag appears original but in bad shape, recommend masking off for the paint or would you recommend replacing?
4. The area directly behind my front bumper is painted black, I was told it was supposed to be a dark greyish color on the 69's. Is that the same for all 69 Shelbys? What color is it?
5. Any other tips or advice? This isn't a full on concourse paint job, I'm just refreshing the tired paint on this driver car of mine but I'd like to keep things accurate without going too crazy.
The emblem and the trunklid mesh /letters is held on with double sided tape. They can be loosened with a heat gun and carefully pried off. It is typical to have to replace with another because the original gets damaged during removal . Shelby parts and restoration sells the most accurate reproduction of the trunklid mesh . You can get new letters and snake emblems from him too. The frame rail behind the front bumper would be most typically black . The firewall back is the place the slop gray paint was used . Firewall forward was a red oxide tint underneath. The engine compartment and the front of the radiator support including the front frame rail was meant to be painted black.
I just want to make sure I understand and that we're talking about the same parts; to confirm the grill in painted the argent grey color, does that include the top grill bracket? Mine is a lighter grey/almost silver. Appears to be repainted at some point, what's the correct color for that part. I've seen various colors online and I have no idea what is actually correct.
The part where the grill sits (not sure of the correct nomenclature of the part) as shown in the picture is painted black on my car..this should be argent grey as well?
Thanks
First "Dark Argent "is what you want to use . 70 Mach I's used it on the side rocker trim. Regular argent is too silver. The triangle shaped support is smigloss black the foglight support is the dark argent . Since you are repainting all these parts I would remind you that the hood latch support that the triangle support piece attaches to is the batch paint in one of the slop gray tints. You didn't mention it so I wanted to bring it up. This is at least the colors used from the factory.
I read on reply 2 that backside of front valence should be blacked out. I want to make that corection on mine. Was any over spray behind fenders corners ?
Was it paint in place as front fiberglass was preassembly by AO smitch ?
Quote from: Shelbypat on October 28, 2018, 08:16:45 PM
I read on reply 2 that backside of front valence should be blacked out. I want to make that corection on mine. Was any over spray behind fenders corners ?
Likely it was (the amount of paint travel and overspray) results of how far over the painter bent, how far he reached on that car and the angle of the spray gun. With that said I don't have any pictures of a car with any great measurable black past where the valance ends at either end but appears to be no effort to mask the surface off at the ends. May have been done by the same painter and at the same time/station as when the turn indicator pockets were detailed with black
Quote from: Shelbypat on October 28, 2018, 08:16:45 PM
Was it paint in place as front fiberglass was preassembly by AO smitch ?
Makes the most sense as that would be the point were it could be done without getting overspray on any of the rest of the car.
Quote from: Shelbypat on October 28, 2018, 08:16:45 PM
I read on reply 2 that backside of front valence should be blacked out. I want to make that corection on mine. Was any over spray behind fenders corners ?
Was it paint in place as front fiberglass was preassembly by AO smitch ?
The front end was completely assembled before attaching it on to the car. It only makes sense that the black out was done prior to the front end being lowered onto and attached to the chassis. With that said from observations on a number of survivor cars there is typically overspray on the backside of the fender portion were the valance ends and the fender begins. It was as if the spray gun trigger was released as the painter got to the very end of the front valance so overspray happened passed the end of the front valance.
Th e top side of valance was blacked out over to the side marker lites & front valance area around the park lamps area to match the blackout from the black paint over the chrome 69 cougar chrome bezels & across the top lip of valance panel & this area is often done wrong & somebody needs to post a good photo (who knows how) to get this correct & its very easy once understood.
Thanks Guys.