I know this was discussed on Forum 1.0, but I can't remember what was said.
I need to replace my turn signal switch (hazards work great, the turn signal flasher has power through it and power through the harness up to the turn signal harness connection), and, therefore, need to remove the steering wheel. The nut is lose / off, and wheel is not budging. I remember someone saying to soak the threaded part (or even shoot it down the crack between the wheel and the column) with some type of solvent, but I can't remember what it was. I tried my old method used on #22 where I left the nut partially threaded (so the wheel doesn't come flying off at you - ask me how I know) and then hitting the center metal arms of the steering wheel with a rubber mallet. No bueno.
Please advise - thanks!
What has worked for me is leaving the nut on, but with the nut loosened until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the center threaded post. One person needs to pull up on both sides of the steering wheel while a second person hits the top of the post / nut with a decent size metal hammer, not rubber. If the nut is flush with the top of the post, or very slightly higher, no damage will be done to the post or nut, and the wheel should come loose.
When you pull on the wheel, pull as close as you can to the center to not bend the spokes. The rubber mallet is too soft of a hit. The decent size metal hammer is the way.
Good luck
Cory
One other method that was discussed on Forum 1.0 was to get the front wheels off the ground, then spin the steering wheel hard lock to lock several times in both directions. The shock when it reaches the end of the travel often breaks it loose.
If you don't want to mess around and want a sure fire way then try this . I got a air hammer tool (about 20.00 at harbor freight) then took one of the chisel attachment and cut it off square with a cutoff saw so I had a blunt end. Unscrew the nut to the end of the thread . I had a friend hold firmly on two spokes one in each hand . While the friend was putting upward pressure on the spokes I would do a couple second rat a tat tat on the end of the shaft protected by the nut with the air hammer with blunt attachment and off it comes . It typically is that quick .Some that are stubborn may require a second hit . I have done somewhere between 50 and 100 this way over the years. The wheel is a interference fit on the shaft and the vibration from the air hammer breaks it loose. You can see similar success with a brass hammer instead of my air hammer but the air hammer is sure fire and the brass hammer not so much. Best of luck however you decide to do it.
If you are practicing proper social distancing and have to "go it alone" you can apply steady upward pressure with your thighs and tap the middle of the shaft with a hammer.Worked for me.Remember to leave the nut on loosely to save the threads AND your teeth....l ;D
Thanks to all! I really appreciate the advise - great stuff. Again, another reason why I love this forum! Multiple great answers within a couple hours - TRULY appreciate.
...and, I feel like I should now start a new thread on "When things didn't go well" to share stories of poor choices. I could fill that thread daily for a year solid!
Steering wheel puller. Some doubled as dampner puller. Safer and effective
The puller is much safer. I learned that lesson the hard way last year. I was working on a 65 convertible and used the hammer method. Gave the shaft a tap and watched the needle on my 8,000 rpm tach jump up to 1000 rpm and not return. The solder joint on the hair spring let go. If you are up for a challenge, try soldering one of those springs!
It may have been a fluke, but the hammer method can be quite jarring to the entire dash.
Unfortunately, you cannot use a steering wheel puller on an original 67 Shelby steering wheel, as there is no way to connect it. Trust me - I wish I could!
I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave
Quote from: Shelby_r_b on April 16, 2020, 08:25:31 AM
Unfortunately, you cannot use a steering wheel puller on an original 67 Shelby steering wheel, as there is no way to connect it. Trust me - I wish I could!
^^^ yes, also I've removed them without help, just not as easy.
Quote from: JD on April 16, 2020, 09:11:04 AM
Quote from: Shelby_r_b on April 16, 2020, 08:25:31 AM
Unfortunately, you cannot use a steering wheel puller on an original 67 Shelby steering wheel, as there is no way to connect it. Trust me - I wish I could!
^^^ yes, also I've removed them without help, just not as easy.
I had that issue as well when I removed my steering wheel after it cracked while backing out of a parking space. You can't get a puller in between the steering wheel and the steering column collar (wish I'd known about Dave's special tool back then!). Rather than destroying the steering wheel, I elected to sacrifice the steering column collar. Very frustrating experience.
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 16, 2020, 08:47:38 AM
I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave
Thanks Dave! I just replied to your PM.
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 16, 2020, 08:47:38 AM
I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave
Dave - could you post details and/or photos of your special puller? I'm sure many of us could use an effective tool that doesn't cause any damage to the wheel.
Many thanks
David
Quote from: Skidado on April 18, 2020, 03:03:40 AM
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 16, 2020, 08:47:38 AM
I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave
Dave - could you post details and/or photos of your special puller? I'm sure many of us could use an effective tool that doesn't cause any damage to the wheel.
Many thanks
David
+1
Special 67 Steering wheel puller. It clamps around the stainless hub below the spokes.
Is that tool for pulling generic wood wheels or is it specifically engineered for the 67 wheel?
Specifically for the 67 wood wheel.
Dave
Dang - that looks like something they'd use in a operating room!!
I was fortunate. I used a small amount of penetrant and let it sit overnight. A bronze drift and a couple whacks with two-pound hammer with the drift on the steering shaft with my knees pushing on the wheel and it came right off.
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 18, 2020, 02:01:10 PM
Special 67 Steering wheel puller. It clamps around the stainless hub below the spokes.
Dang! That apparatus looks incredible!!!
...I'm such a novice!
Thanks!
Dave, That's a nice removal tool! I noted others commented with 68 and later cars that used Ford wheels. There are no provisions for threading the bolts to the hub on the 1967 cars. Getting heavy-handed can be an expensive mistake.
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 18, 2020, 02:01:10 PM
Special 67 Steering wheel puller. It clamps around the stainless hub below the spokes.
Wow that's quite a contraption! Did you make it or can we buy them from somewhere?
Looking at the picture I think I can work out how it works. One thing that's not clear - does the lower red plate clamp tight around the wheel boss (danger of slippage...?) or does it press against the underside of the spokes?
Many thanks
David
Quote from: Skidado on April 19, 2020, 02:21:20 AM
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 18, 2020, 02:01:10 PM
Special 67 Steering wheel puller. It clamps around the stainless hub below the spokes.
Wow that's quite a contraption! Did you make it or can we buy them from somewhere?
Looking at the picture I think I can work out how it works. One thing that's not clear - does the lower red plate clamp tight around the wheel boss (danger of slippage...?) or does it press against the underside of the spokes?
Many thanks
It has a thin lip that slides in at the bottom edge between the column and the steering wheel edge. It pulls the hub from the rear edge of the wheel with pressure applied at the steering shaft. Great design!
David
I agree that a puller is not going to work. Years back I was restoring #0195. After trying different pullers for god only knows how long a friend suggested the loosing nut technique with a ball pean hammer "tap"! The best and easiest way in my opinion!
The puller was hand made and not cheap to produce. I can get a price from the shop that produced it but you better be sitting down when you review the cost.
Dave: So you're in the rental tool business now? ;D
I would venture to guess this beautiful tool is on the north side of 700.00. It's design is well thought out. I was fortunate with my Shelby but many were stored in horrid conditions. With two dissimilar metals, they often fuse.
I did the loosen the nut, slight pressure upward with legs, trick and it was out in 2 minutes. ( I did use a socket extension and hit that with the hammer).
Quote from: 67 GT350 on April 19, 2020, 03:27:15 PM
I did the loosen the nut, slight pressure upward with legs, trick and it was out in 2 minutes. ( I did use a socket extension and hit that with the hammer).
^^^ +1 Me too, did take couple hard raps with the hammer
The metal and rubber parts are the steering wheel puller I bought circa 1974-75 to work on a 1967 GT500. The wooden pieces were made by the last person to borrow what I had to use on his 1967 Shelby.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/274-190420154909.jpeg)
I have a couple steering wheel pullers that my dad had. Think of a big mag wheel lug nut with correct thread for steering box shaft - take off stock nut - thread on puller - push back on wheel with knees - hit puller with 2 lb+ hammer - wheel is off.
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 19, 2020, 02:24:04 PM
The puller was hand made and not cheap to produce. I can get a price from the shop that produced it but you better be sitting down when you review the cost.
Maybe if 4-5 guys had one made, it would might bring the price down to just a wobble in the knees. ;D
Quote from: JD on April 19, 2020, 03:48:54 PM
Quote from: 67 GT350 on April 19, 2020, 03:27:15 PM
I did the loosen the nut, slight pressure upward with legs, trick and it was out in 2 minutes. ( I did use a socket extension and hit that with the hammer).
^^^ +1 Me too, did take couple hard raps with the hammer
A brass or bronze drift pin and a big hammer has worked for me on a number of them. I hate hitting the steering shaft that hard however and never pull on the outside of the wheel. The welds that hold the spokes to the carbon steel inner ring are weak and easily break. An air chisel with a blunt end actually worked better. If you get one that won't budge, the puller I have is the way to go with no damage.
Dave
this the easiest way to do this
https://www.harborfreight.com/medium-barrel-air-impact-hammer-61244.html
Quote from: acman63 on April 19, 2020, 07:08:47 PM
this the easiest way to do this
https://www.harborfreight.com/medium-barrel-air-impact-hammer-61244.html
That's what I use . No need for anything fancy. I said 20 bucks in reply # 4 . They are even cheaper now I see. For those that are scared of hurting something with this method you will not believe how minimally evasive it is . There is no set up time other then running the steering wheel nut out to the end. It just takes a quick second pull off trigger and its done.Much better then hitting with a hammer . I have not seen a easier way.
(Maybe hard to believe but not everyone has a compressor)
Many thanks to Dave, as the steering wheel is off! It took me less than 1/2 turn of the tool's center bolt before the steering wheel popped off.
Here are some pictures.
Thanks again, Dave!!
I've been trying to remove my steering wheel very gently over the last 3 days. It was recommended to me to use some Free All (liquid wrench) and some gentle taps with a rubber hammer to remove the steering wheel, and to repeat this approach until the steering wheel came loose. After multiple attempts over 72 hours, I had to try something new.
So after reading Bob Gaines' method listed above, I ran over to Harbor Freight for the chisel attachment, cut the end off, grinded it down smooth, and in less than 1 minute I had the steering wheel was off. Very easy approach, and thanks for sharing it!
Here is my celebratory picture shortly after removal... One has to celebrate the wins.
Quote from: Jbrooks on May 14, 2021, 03:48:24 PM
I've been trying to remove my steering wheel very gently over the last 3 days. It was recommended to me to use some Free All (liquid wrench) and some gentle taps with a rubber hammer to remove the steering wheel, and to repeat this approach until the steering wheel came loose. After multiple attempts over 72 hours, I had to try something new.
So after reading Bob Gaines' method listed above, I ran over to Harbor Freight for the chisel attachment, cut the end off, grinded it down smooth, and in less than 1 minute I had the steering wheel was off. Very easy approach, and thanks for sharing it!
Here is my celebratory picture shortly after removal... One has to celebrate the wins.
Great to read about the win . It doesn't always have to be complicated. ;)
Mine just popped off with one good tug near the hub. I hope that doesn't happen while I'm driving? ::)
Quote from: shelbydoug on May 14, 2021, 06:52:53 PM
Mine just popped off with one good tug near the hub. I hope that doesn't happen while I'm driving? ::)
I have faith that you you remembered to thread on the nut and tighten it. So you should be good.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on May 14, 2021, 06:59:32 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on May 14, 2021, 06:52:53 PM
Mine just popped off with one good tug near the hub. I hope that doesn't happen while I'm driving? ::)
I have faith that you you remembered to thread on the nut and tighten it. So you should be good.
Faith is a powerful thing!
Which raises the question:how tight?What is optimal torque to keep wheel on without it being a bear to remove later if needed?
Quote from: 557 on May 14, 2021, 11:14:03 PM
Which raises the question:how tight?What is optimal torque to keep wheel on without it being a bear to remove later if needed?
Same as a standard Mustang wheel. It not a bear to take off regardless of torque if you take it off it like many of us including myself do.
The 67 wheel won't come off while driving. You will bend it first before that happens.
Mine did, nut worked loose and the wheel popped-off. That'll get your attention real quick!
Quote from: JD on May 15, 2021, 06:06:48 PM
Mine did, nut worked loose and the wheel popped-off. That'll get your attention real quick!
LOL! ;D
Quote from: JD on May 15, 2021, 06:06:48 PM
Mine did, nut worked loose and the wheel popped-off. That'll get your attention real quick!
...wow!!! I'd have to recover the driver's seat. ;)
Quote from: Shelby_r_b on May 16, 2021, 12:07:40 AM
Quote from: JD on May 15, 2021, 06:06:48 PM
Mine did, nut worked loose and the wheel popped-off. That'll get your attention real quick!
...wow!!! I'd have to recover the driver's seat. ;)
You'd probably have to use hand signals too since that could take out the directional signals? ::)
Just a quick heads up and thanks to Bob Gaines for his tip to remove the steering wheel. The rat-a-tat-tat worked like a charm, came off with no effort at all and only one shot with the pneumatic hammer. Way to easy!
I want to make a shout out to Dave Mathews and his steering wheel puller he had made for use on the '67 Shelby wheels. Our GT500, #906's steering wheel would not come off. Tried the center punch on the steering column, the air chisel trick but this thing wouldn't budge.
I contacted Dave and he was nice enough to send me the puller he had made and a thing of beauty it is. This thing is top quality, fits like a glove and with a little use of a flex bar on the center bolt, off pops the steering wheel. I used more time placing the wheel puller around the wheel hub than it took to tighten the bolt and remove the wheel.
I want to thank Dave for the use of the puller, his knowledge of the GT500's and his contributions to this forum. A nicer man you will not find.
Terry Hill