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For originals I've got pictures of the Stant mark surrounded by two circles one in side of the other - Initials in the center. Can't post a picture right at the moment 

Stant trademark is what I have seen too.

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

I could always look for the coil you describe and get it.  They are not expensive.  At least this one wasn't.  It is 1.5 ohms which apparently is recommended for a V8 engine.

Or take off the sticker and leave the rest alone.

* Capacity 7 quarts with oil and filter change per Ford TSB article #2322 published May 1970; add 1 more quart (8 quarts total) if equipped with an external oil cooler.




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The discussion is about a 1968 oil cooler not a 1969 /70.  You are apparently not familiar with the different oil coolers. The 67/68 and the 69/70 oil coolers are completely different shape and consequently have a different capacity. 

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Yes the coil was factory installed on the passenger side. Yes I can see that you are getting power from the coil terminal. I am familiar with your style coil and it has a internal resister so it can be used with the stock resistor wire that steps down the voltage to the coil or with a modified wiring with full 12 volts from the ignition switch bypassing the resister wire wrapped inside the stock wiring harness. The resister inside the aftermarket coil steps down the voltage inside before it gets to the windings. The problem is that if you have a stock wiring harness with the stock resistor wire wrapped inside then your aftermarket coil terminal is getting less then the full 12 volts and consequently since that is where you are getting power for the module is suppling less voltage then what the module needs to work properly. As has been said before sometimes the module will work properly at least for a while with the lower voltage and sometimes it will act up and stop running similar to the symptoms you describe.

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Some of the oil will drain back from the cooler but certainly not all.

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter.

Question from the peanut gallery.  I've never had a car with the oil cooler and never looked into them.  Is it part of the oil change process to drain the cooler?  If so, then I can see adding the additional for the cooler.  But on a normal oil change on a car with an oil cooler, if you can't drain the cooler, you are, 1: Leaving some quantity of old oil in it 2: won't need to add the additional oil.  Unless you have somehow drained the cooler.  Or an I missing something?

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter.

Question from the peanut gallery.  I've never had a car with the oil cooler and never looked into them.  Is it part of the oil change process to drain the cooler?  If so, then I can see adding the additional for the cooler.  But on a normal oil change on a car with an oil cooler, if you can't drain the cooler, you are, 1: Leaving some quantity of old oil in it 2: won't need to add the additional oil.  Unless you have somehow drained the cooler.  Or an I missing something?

Draining the oil cooler and lines is not part of the typical oil change process. Some of the oil will drain back from the cooler but certainly not all. Start with 5 Qts run the engine then check and only add oil if needed. If on a A/C car with oil cooler and the factory short oil filter(for this application) it will probably only need a little extra vs. the longer filter which will require a little more.   

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter. 

Sorry I slipped and didn't mark that they have been sold. Thank you for your interest.

Hi again,
Thanks to Bob and Jeff. This small part is listed as a C9ZZ-10A705-A  did not go any further back and the notes in the MPC do not give any details. My thoughts are much like Bob's If you have the hole in the apron it most likley had a bracket. It must have been
used in 67 then later changed up to a 69 part number. Doubt it is worth doing a survey
over, but nice to know others notice small details.
Thanks again for the shared knowledge!!
R.R.

R.R. to continue with more friendly shared knowledge you should know that the 69 C9ZZ-A bracket is not the same as the 67 bracket. The 69 bracket is a completely different shape. A nice repro of the 69 bracket is also sold by NPD. There is also a 1970 bracket that because of the change in the 1970 battery hold down is different yet still.

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

It is pretty simple to figure what wire to use at the ignition switch for full 12 volt power. There is a short wire with a bullet connector that comes off the ignition switch that your tach wire plugs into . You tap into the wire someplace between the ignition switch and the bullet connector and run that wire out to the pertronix. You are all about day 2 modifications so the extra wire should not offend your sensibilities. I would run a black wire so that it blends in more with the existing harness but that is just me. If you want to get creative you can tape wrap the extra wire into the harness at the firewall and let it exit out closer to the coil so that it is harder to distinguish as extra. Best of luck on how ever you decide to solve your problem.

Answer this question first. Is your Pertronix powered at the coil or another place and if so where?
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It has a positive and a negative wire that connect to the little coil terminals and then there is an extra positive wire plug that goes over the little positive post on the coil after the positive and negative wires are attached.  For ignition perhaps?  Then there is the larger coil wire that goes to the distributor that has the same 8 mm thickness as a spark plug wires. 
[/quote] If you are getting power from the coil then your problem may be because the Pertronix is not getting a full 12 volts like the instructions says that is necessary for the module to work properly. The coil source is a cheater way of getting power for the module . It will work but since it is not a full 12 volts (9 1/2 volts I think when key is in on position through the resistor wire) can sometimes cause problems. To get a full 12 volts typically a wire is connected in the harness at the ignition switch shortly BEFORE it turns into resistor wire for the coil and run this extra wire out to the module for power. The problem you describe is a common problem with Pertronix and the change to full 12 volts like the the factory says the module requires is the common way to typically solve it. Another way to get 12 volts out to the module without running a extra wire is to eliminate or bypass the resistor wire in the harness to the coil but then you MUST run a after market coil that has a built in resistor . Most if not all aftermarket coils are made to run on a full 12 volts or the lower voltage of the resistor wire because they have a INTERNAL resistor so only the lower voltage amount gets to the coil windings. If you run a full 12 Volts to a Ford yellow top coil it will heat up to a point that you can't even touch it before failing or exploding!   I don't know how many times I have heard the Pertronix problem stories and getting power at the coil is a root cause on the vast majority. 

The aluminum Shelby pan on your GT500 should hold 7 quarts plus the one quart for the filter. So every oil change should require 8 quarts.

No factory 60's GT500 regardless of year used a aluminum oil pan.

If it is the Ford steel oil pan you need 5 quarts including the filter. The TSB only applies to 1969 - 70 engines.

Just to be crystal clear for those reading, that means 5 qt total . No extra oil is needed for the filter.

I had a problem in paradise with the Shelby.  Once again, when the engine warms up and heads toward hot, it can cut off and the revs die, then I coast to a viable spot to pull over.  When the engine cools down it starts up again.  The second to last time that happened, I replaced the module inside the Pertronix distributor.  I just finished up again replacing the module today and also replaced the coil that appeared to have some corrosion inside it. The distributor is now on its third module.  The technique for installing the module is reminiscent of my 89 Saleen Mustang that I owned a while ago but sold.  It would quit anywhere and at any speed without warning.  I think there was a TSB on the problem but never elevated to the level of a recall.  The TFI (thick film ignition) module slapped on the side of the distributor on the 89 Mustangs can go bad and then the new replacement needs some dielectric grease to help it work before it is bolted on.  It also had a stator in it.  (Not sure if dual point ignition has a stator but I will look it up.)  The Pertronix requires the same thing.  Dielectric grease then bolt the little thing down inside the distributor as opposed to the side as in the late 80s application, and button up the distributor once you put the rotor back on.  I did some research on YouTube regarding Pertronix issues and the comments sections were replete with commentary about how their engines would cut out while driving.  Same problem I had.  Seems to be gone now.  I fiddled with the distributor and turned it clockwise until it fired up then locked it down.  I have not thrown a timing gun on it but seems okay for the time being.  The consensus with a number of Pertronix guys was that they were done with Pertronix and went back to points.  I think I may be reaching a similar boiling "point."  I understand that Ford distributors that would be period correct are as rare as they are expensive.  Neither Autolite nor Motorcraft would be correct.  But then again, the engine is an 86 302 roller rocker engine donated to the car by my father.  It apparently came out of a drag car.  Runs pretty strong.  Go back to a dual points setup or deal with Petronix issues?  Am I exchanging one set of problems for a different set?  Which set of problems is more tolerable?  I hate driving with the sword of Damocles hanging over me that the engine could quit at any moment no matter where or when.  I understand points need tweaking or replacement every 5,000 miles but they can be serviced at the side of the road if they go bad.  Are points as risky while driving?  Is there some advance notice or inspection that can preempt such issues as quitting?

Answer this question first. Is your Pertronix powered at the coil or another place and if so where?

 For future reference to save time start first with the owners manual.   Page 55 in this case.