Messages

Hi all,

I am in the process of installing the rear main cap with the crank and side seals.  I have watch several YouTube's and read instructions "how to".  Below is a summary of the suggested methods.  If you have experience installing this side seals, please comment.  Thank you

1)  From "How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines" by Steve Christ, he recommends "Installing the main bearing cap and bolts, but leave the cap about 1/8 inch off its register.  Oil the sides seals and slide down into place...  Be sure the seal bottoms against the block.  Push the cap down all the way down and snug the bolts down by hand."  I have not tried this, but it seams the compression of the side seal might make this difficult.  Thoughts?

2)  Steve goes on to say "Ford recommends torquing the main cap before installing the side seals.  But this might make it difficult to get the side seals to seat onto the block.  Thoughts?

3)  A Youtube video, the technician recommends super gluing the side seals in place with the seal extended beyond the cap to seat against the block and then install the main cap.  Sealant was applied to the side seals, no oil.  The impression I got was the seal would seat against the block and slide the upper end out of the cap slightly.  I had tried this and the seal did not slide up and in fact when after I removed, did not feel right, the seal was bunched up in the seal cavity.  The side nail went in very hard because of the bunching.  Thoughts?  I can see this method working, but just a small extension beyond the cap.

4)  Trying to install the cap with the side seals in place, held only by fingers and hands was going to difficult.  I could not keep them from being pushed out when pushing the cap down.  A YouTube video used this methods excepts with oil on the side seals and the seal well below the cap to get them started.  The video cuts away and comes back with the seals installed.  Is this the best method?  Thoughts.

5)  The instructions on the Fel-Pro packages follow the methods outlined in methods 4 with the seals flush to the top of the cap, with seals extended beyond bottom of cap.  This method and method 4 might work better with two sets of hands.  Thoughts.

Oiling the side seals (methods 1, 2, 4 and 5 seams to be a common method.  Helps keep the seals from pushing up.

Any suggests or comments on the above methods would be useful.  What has worked well for you before I try again.

Thank you

Cory

Hi Chips',

Please tell us which printing.

Thanks

Cory

Unless I missed it, would like to have seen him answer the questions about the odd looking GT350 owner's manual.

Hi Dave,  you forgot to post an image of the manual in question for when the auction link no longer works.  Is this the one?  I wonder if Vernon has any thoughts on this piece.

Cory

Hi all,

There are four open holes in the lifter valley that require a freeze plug. I measured them just under a half inch. Do they take an .500 inch freeze plug or something slightly larger?

I had a complete freeze plug kit with these four extra freeze plugs that I discovered I needed and no longer have. I can't find any size information on these four locations.

Please advise

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

I have for offer is a 1966 GT350 COBRA tachometer, rebuilt/repaired, new wires by Phil in Idaho.  It is date stamped APRIL 14, 1966.  It has a fresh wrinkle paint on the cup and repop bracket.  The stainless steel bezel and center knob shine beautifully.  It is "turn key" ready to install.  I'd like $950 plus the ride.  If you are interested, please send me a message.

Thank you

Cory

In the attached image are two Z-bars. The one on the left is a HiPo and the one on the right is a LoPo.  Both have been reinforced. The LoPo was still bending under load.

Hi all,

This seems to be a new feature on the SAAC forum.  It appears a thread is listed every time there is a comment.   It pushes other recent threads off the recent thread list.  See attached image for example.  The one topic is listed five times, original post plus four replies.  I did like when a thread had a reply it would move to top of recent thread list.  Thoughts?

Cory

Hi all,

I have a 1968 Shelby Mustang center console lid available.  It's tan, but can easily be dyed black if desired.  I'd like $400 plus the ride.  Please see images and ask questions.  Please send me a message if interested.

Thanks

Cory

Hi Bob,

What is the best recipe to black out raised white letters.

Thanks

Cory

Hi Steve,

My experience with the Goodyear Polyglas tires (E60-14) is that they actually corner well, but are terrifying on the straights when you get in a rut, especially on the interstate.  If you stay on the back roads, they should be the most fun to drive on.  I am curious to hear your thoughts.  I also love the look.

Cory

Hi Steve,

My mistake.  I did not realize this tires were radials.  They should handle just fine.

Looking good

Cory

Hi Steve,

My experience with the Goodyear Polyglas tires (E60-14) is that they actually corner well, but are terrifying on the straights when you get in a rut, especially on the interstate.  If you stay on the back roads, they should be the most fun to drive on.  I am curious to hear your thoughts.  I also love the look.

Cory

Here is a side-by-side comparison between a stock HiPo 289 head and a Valley Head Service HiPo head.

Enjoy

Cory

Holman and Moody can also re-grind an original HiPo 289 cam and retreat the surface. This might as well be an NOS cam when you get done.  The amount of material removed is barely any and does not affect the other valve train parts. That's at least what Holman and Moody told me.

Best of luck

Cory

Hi Davez,

I like the satin finish.  Do you know if the OEM finish on the visible side was flat for both the gray and black?

Cory

Sale pending.

Thanks Bob

Cory