Messages

Thanks for the replies. Does anyone have a photo of the seat back support structures without the foam installed ?  I am not sure what it is supposed to look like. 

Does anyone know how to fix my twisted seat back on driver's front seat?  Not sure why, but it is twisting toward the right rear. 

Thanks.

Announced at dinner: Beaver Run Raceway.  Hotels in Pittsburgh.  Should be in early to mid-July.  Details pending.

The BeaveRun race track changed their name to PittRace.  Here is the website.  http://pittrace.com/

I'm pretty sure the track has not changed.  I liked the old name and still have the plaque with the scared beaver sticking out of the Cobra from the last time it was there. 

Being from Pittsburgh, I will be there with my 69 GT350 convertible. 

I know one of the racing instructors at PittRace.  If anyone needs me to contact him to get track information or anything, let me know.  He is at the track daily.

Since your from the area...is there any other must see places while we're in the area? (Shelby / Mustang related)
If I can get out there, it would be my first stay on that side of the state. Might as well make more out of it if possible.

Other than a few private collections I have seen, there really isn't any noteworthy shelby/mustang places to see here in Pittsburgh that I am aware of. 

Announced at dinner: Beaver Run Raceway.  Hotels in Pittsburgh.  Should be in early to mid-July.  Details pending.

The BeaveRun race track changed their name to PittRace.  Here is the website.  http://pittrace.com/

I'm pretty sure the track has not changed.  I liked the old name and still have the plaque with the scared beaver sticking out of the Cobra from the last time it was there. 

Being from Pittsburgh, I will be there with my 69 GT350 convertible. 

I know one of the racing instructors at PittRace.  If anyone needs me to contact him to get track information or anything, let me know.  He is at the track daily. 

I'd love to run ethanol-free in my 69 shelby, but the only available option for it is 89 octane and it is a 20 minute drive from my house.  I could drive 40 minutes to get 91 octane ethanol free.  There are times when I am on a road tour and have no choice but to buy E10.  As a result, I have just been putting E10 in all the time.  I have Turbo Blue 115 octane leaded available for $9/gallon, but I was told by a friend it has ethanol in it.  I need to confirm that info. 

With that said, I am having fuel-related issues currently also.  My fuel level in the carb bowls drops very low 4 hours after hot shut down and parking in the garage.  I've had the carb apart 3 times and am beginning to think it is the transverse muffler heating the fuel in the tank and increasing the fuel pressure.  My theory is it could force the fuel down into the intake if the pressure gets high enough.  I recently put a new vented fuel cap on my GT350 and I am wondering if it does not vent enough.  I installed a heat insulating plate under my carb temporarily, but that didn't fix the problem.  Next time I drive the car, I will remove the fuel cap after hot shut off and see if the fuel drops well below my clear site plugs. 

I've been looking for a reason to put real dual mufflers on my car now that my 351W makes 380 HP.  The possibility the transverse muffler is heating my fuel up in the tank is the best reason so far. 

Yeah. The Shadyside area of Pittsburgh is in the congested parts of our city.  My buddies 68 350 is red. He might also bring his 65 gt350 instead, not sure.  I will look for your car and say hello.  Pizza and beer included upstairs at marios.

I will be there also, but not with my shelby.  I suggest getting there early - before 4pm is best.  I will be with a buddy in a 68 GT350 fastback. 

Good to know but apparently not a huge issue given all of the Shelbys and for that matter Mustangs that haven't reported issues related to this before.

I agree.  I think if my original, glued 69 shelby rims were going to come apart, they would have done so already.  I've put 10,000 miles on them in my ownership period with radial tires. 

This is an interesting read.

https://www.sema.org/files/attachments/WTC-2011-05-Bias-vs-Radial-Tire-Wheel-Fitment.pdf?__utma=95790915.1499687327.1527361338.1527361338.1527361338.1&__utmb=95790915.0.10.1527361338&__utmc=95790915&__utmx=-&__utmz=95790915.1527361338.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=(not%20provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=264461127

I have a little more vibration now with the cam I have.  I never heard of it before either or had it happen. Maybe something is wrong with the steering components recently rebuilt.  I think I will simply double nut it and it will never come loose again. 

I lost all steering yesterday as I backed my Shelby out of the garage into my driveway.  The p/s slave cylinder rod end nut backed all the way off and the rod came out of the frame bracket.  Fortunately, it happened at 1mph in my driveway.  I was driving my Shelby at 70mph 2 days before - I feel lucky to be alive. 

After some research, I found there is supposed to be a lock nut on the rod end threads that prevents the nut from backing off.  My Shelby had a hardware store hex nut installed with no locking nut as was factory installed.  I never noticed or knew about the lock nut. 

I thought I would post this so others can check their cars to make sure you have a lock nut installed.  The amk kit is F-1811.

Hi Tor,

I received your PM, but could not reply to you via PM.  Forum would not allow it for some reason.

AMK makes 2 kits for your seat belts for your 70 shelby convertible - front and rear.   See below.  I suggest you verify the place nut threads are still in good condition and proper size before ordering your new kits.  Sometimes the threads are damaged on some cars.

You can get them at amkproducts.com or other mustang vendors.  Good luck and it sounds like a very nice car.   

Part num
F-3561   SEAT BELTS (Fr)   TORX BOLTS, RUBBER WA'S, SPACERS   12   16
F-3566   SEAT BELTS (Rr) 2-29-68 >   TORX BOLTS, SPACERS   8   14

Stock ford transverse muffler. 
https://youtu.be/wIK8uK-JZFA

Maybe, but you might be better off buying new ones from amk products.

Adding a small bottle of zddp to oil does not provide the same level of protection as buying oil with the proper amounts of zinc and phosphorous blended in at the molecular level when the oil is produced.  I've read this and have been told this by 2 engine builders that know their stuff and race. 

I always thought that the bearing clearances in each engine dictate what viscosity oil is required to give proper oil pressure.