Topics

69 GT500,  All stock, wiring etc.
Problem with the horns.
If both are plugged in they produce no sound.
Have to unplug the hi-pitch horn to get the low-pitch to work.
If the low pitch is unplugged the high pitch does not work.
Both horns were tested independently off the car and operate properly. 
Correct me if I am wrong but the Mustang does not use a horn relay.
I'm not very strong on electricals.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
TonyS

Why is it always recommended to put light sand scratches in bare sheet metal before priming?
I know it promotes adhesion but the factory never did this.
If you've ever stripped original paint using chemical stripper as I have many times you will not find any scratched sheet metal.   

There are plenty of original paint gems around showing no signs of peeling or lifting. Case in point, the Bob Perkins collection.
With the vast improvements in paint/primer chemistry what is the need for scratching virgin sheet metal???

I've only painted panels not a complete vehicle and my paintwork is as solid as the day it was applied and
it has been 20+ years.
On sheet metal I've used a Metalprep type chemical etching as per label instructions followed by PPG DP74.
On my original 69 Shelby fiberglass front valance after chem stripping and without any light sanding I used PPG DP50 and again no hint of an issue after 20+ years.
I was told to clean the fiberglass well and the DP50 will grab like hell.
If you've ever chem stripped original fiberglass panels you'll see they are as smooth as a baby's ass.

Just my thoughts and limited experience.
Thanks,
TonyS     
   

When refurbing the interior of my original 69 GT500 I noticed the windlace had a flat or square face.
The windlace sold by most all of the well known parts suppliers at the time was noticeably different as it had a rounded face.
I managed to locate a South Carolina business that was restoring deluxe door panels at the time named "Andy's Door Panels".
Andy's had the exact type of windlace and of course I purchased it.
That was long ago and I think Andy's no longer exists.
Is the correct for 69-70 square windlace still available?

Thanks
TonyS

Curious, with very few manufacturers producing 3 finger Long pressure plates I'd like to know
what clutches other big block owners are running.
I was thinking of a McLeod diaphragm.
Also, I currently have a Ford rebuilt long style 11.5 in my GT500.
Is it wise to  have the pressure plate rebuilt?
Who would be best for a rebuild, Fort Wayne Clutch for example.

Thanks,
TonyS.   

Anyone know of a currently available non-vented fuel cap for the 1969's.
Don't need concours just a cap that is reliably non-vented.

Thanks,
TonyS

Had the clock from my 69 GT500 repaired several years ago but it suddenly stopped working.
Orig movement not quartz conversion.
Any recommendations for mechanical repair.
Car is always garaged and there is no UV damage or fading.

Thanks,
TonyS

I have all the trim off and the 2 screws removed from the front radio bracket but the radio won't budge.
I'm thinking the dash pad has to be removed and there must be some sort of rear bracket holding the radio and preventing removal.
(I've had the pad off many times for various reasons.)
Any tips appreciated.
Thanks,
TonyS

Just purchased a solid state sequential taillight control board from Branda.
I also purchased the required turn signal flasher.

Upon reading the instructions it is recommended to replace the emergency flasher however
the instructions show an old Ford part number.

Does anyone have a current manufacturer and part number for this?

Thanks,
TonyS

Is there any source for the original style metal backing plate to housing flange gaskets for 9in 31 spl rear?
My car 1969 GT500 original/not restored  does have these metal gaskets.
Seems like they are not available from the usual Mustang parts houses.
They are listed in the NPD catalog as used "after 9/30/69".
Was told they are not available.
Ran what I think is the correct part number D0OZ-1001-A thru Green Sales site but "not in stock" 
Thanks,
TonyS   

Moving from NY to Raleigh NC.
Any suggestions for professional shippers, or any club members who provide this service?
Any thoughts on towing with a rented U-HAUL combo.

Thanks,
TonyS.

The 1969-70 Shelby door data plate for Black Jade cars  reads  C3 for the color code.
All auto body supply shops I've been to can only supply color code  C  Dark Ivy Green Metallic. (which I think is a 1970 Mustang color)

For a concours Black Jade car  is this color custom mixed/tinted to get the correct shade or or is a color sensing gun used?
Do any of the major paint manufacturers produce a correct Black Jade?

Thanks,
TonyS.

I know Jim Dove founder of Dove Engine Parts passed away several years ago but does anyone know what the status of Dove has been since?
Has anyone taken over the operation or have all the molds/patterns been sold off?
Dove was a pioneer in the FE engine parts world long before anyone else.
I also remember John Chacci (since passed also) who was Dove's master machinist/pattern maker at many swap meets and at SAAC Watkins Glen in 1993.
They had the ability to turn out some really nice FE hardware and just wondering if anyone knows where it all went.

Thanks,
TonyS       

Who is producing the most accurate late 60's (if that makes a difference)  Ford blue engine paint at this time?
Or are the top restorers having theirs custom mixed ?
I have spray equip and a compressor,  so no spray bomb no problem.

Thanks,
TonyS

Damn good company.
I bought a pair of custom width  15x8  1969 Shelby wheels from them several years back.
Very nice repros.
I hope they did not go belly-up.


Thanks,
TonyS