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[/quote]Answer this question first. Is your Pertronix powered at the coil or another place and if so where?
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It has a positive and a negative wire that connect to the little coil terminals and then there is an extra positive wire plug that goes over the little positive post on the coil after the positive and negative wires are attached.  For ignition perhaps?   Then there is the larger coil wire that goes to the distributor that has the same 8 mm thickness as a spark plug wires. 

I had a problem in paradise with the Shelby.  Once again, when the engine warms up and heads toward hot, it can cut off and the revs die, then I coast to a viable spot to pull over.  When the engine cools down it starts up again.  The second to last time that happened, I replaced the module inside the Pertronix distributor.  I just finished up again replacing the module today and also replaced the coil that appeared to have some corrosion inside it. The distributor is now on its third module.  The technique for installing the module is reminiscent of my 89 Saleen Mustang that I owned a while ago but sold.  It would quit anywhere and at any speed without warning.  I think there was a TSB on the problem but never elevated to the level of a recall.  The TFI (thick film ignition) module slapped on the side of the distributor on the 89 Mustangs can go bad and then the new replacement needs some dielectric grease to help it work before it is bolted on.  It also had a stator in it.  (Not sure if dual point ignition has a stator but I will look it up.)  The Pertronix requires the same thing.  Dielectric grease then bolt the little thing down inside the distributor as opposed to the side as in the late 80s application, and button up the distributor once you put the rotor back on.  I did some research on YouTube regarding Pertronix issues and the comments sections were replete with commentary about how their engines would cut out while driving.  Same problem I had.  Seems to be gone now.  I fiddled with the distributor and turned it clockwise until it fired up then locked it down.  I have not thrown a timing gun on it but seems okay for the time being.  The consensus with a number of Pertronix guys was that they were done with Pertronix and went back to points.  I think I may be reaching a similar boiling "point."  I understand that Ford distributors that would be period correct are as rare as they are expensive.  Neither Autolite nor Motorcraft would be correct.  But then again, the engine is an 86 302 roller rocker engine donated to the car by my father.  It apparently came out of a drag car.  Runs pretty strong.  Go back to a dual points setup or deal with Petronix issues?  Am I exchanging one set of problems for a different set?  Which set of problems is more tolerable?  I hate driving with the sword of Damocles hanging over me that the engine could quit at any moment no matter where or when.  I understand points need tweaking or replacement every 5,000 miles but they can be serviced at the side of the road if they go bad.  Are points as risky while driving?  Is there some advance notice or inspection that can preempt such issues as quitting?

Get off my car!

Yes, happy Memorial Day to all those who have defended us against enemies both foreign and domestic.  Beautiful Shelby incidentally.  G.T. 500 next to the 66?

I am going to get the correct one.  Metal is better than plastic anyway so I like the metal one more.  Thank you for taking the time to look under the respective dashes.

Try pulling the key out of the tumbler a 1/16 of an inch and then turn

I tried but to no avail.  Thank you for the suggestion though.

I drove almost 1,000 miles on the recent Cobra Tour on the new Goodyears and have to say I really like the ride and handling. The only issue is when turning with the wheel,turned to lock the barely rubs the inside of the frame rail. I don't have the steering stops installed at this time as I just haven't installed since Shelby Parts and Restoration redid them so it might become a non issue.
Smooth, quiet and handle well. For me they are well worth the price

Oh o. Steering stops. What are they and how easy are they to see under the car? Maybe mine has them. Maybe it doesn't. I will google it but might not find the highly specific info.

Here is the original from 6S933:

That is almost too pretty to hide behind the dash.😉

It sure is. There is a certain beauty I find to individual car parts. I will search for a metal one. I am sure I had one with the car but got lost in the shuffle. Thank you for everyone's input

It would be car 843. Registry says a radio was installed on 1-31-66 by (for) Hi Performance Motors.

I bought an under air vent that had no holes for two things that go on it one being what my buddy said is an attachment for the wiring harness and the second one for a turn signal fuse.  The vent hole has a plastic grill.  I found another vent that has no plastic grill and also has the attachment points.  It has a lid that looks like it was partly opened by a can opener instead of a plastic grill.  Is the third one the real one?  I am suspecting the one I got was an old aftermarket clone.

I had one of my "nos" H designated pony keys cut using the original Ford key as the template and it won't turn in the switch  I looked at the cut job and it is spot on.  I am surprised that tolerances on the ignition tumblers are that refined.  I will bring it over to the key cutter and they said they would take a look.  Thank you everyone for your observations.

I couldn't even write this stuff.

The auto manufacturers are compromised. Keep your old cars gentlemen. And save up on spare parts. We are in for a rough ride by the global political landscape.

Thanks for identifying that issue, Bob. I will check it out and see what needs to be done.

the screws and plastic inserts are original on 6S1431 and look like the ones in the photo, except mine are a lot more crusty looking

Simplicity and beauty of old technology in everything about these cars.  The new stuff might not age so well when computer components become obsolete and fail are no longer made.