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I am looking for advice on a good Raydot style mirror for my dad's 65 non-Shelby fastback.  Is there more than one manufacturer for them?  I am looking for the best replica out there preferably made in the USA or UK.  Thanks for any input.  You guys, all of you, are great.

There are many manufacturers today that make that style of mirror. It got the name because back in the day the only manufacture Raydot/Raydyot made them and had a trademark stamped into the topside of the metal case which is how you tell genuine from repro. At least for a good part of their production. The genuine Raydyot mirrors are out of production and sought after by those that only want original and not repro. The genuine command many times the amount that you can buy a repro for. 

Hello! I'm looking for a set of 1970 Shelby rotors. The ones with the big bearings. I've been looking and it dose not seem like they make them any more. Any help! Thanks

They have been obsolete for about 2 or 3 years now. I talked to Scott at NPD and NPD and Branda how shared the last batch are not going to have another run made up given how many they have to buy and how long it took them to sell the last run. I have a spare set. PM sent.

Not sure how close this is to what you are looking for but here's a couple of pictures of a mirror I've had for around 45yrs.

      Roy

That is the Talbot style . The Raydot/Raydyot style is like the picture. Branda sells them.

Hi
Did the 69 gt500 come with a windage tray from factory
Thanks
Barry

Windage trays came on all 428 Cobra Jet engines starting in 1969 so yes it came on 69 GT500.

If one side is tightened with load on it and one side doesn't have load on it then it is possible to have some difference. How much I don't know. Here's some info from MOOG:

https://www.moogparts.com/en-gb/blog/tighten-bushing-bolt-on-vehicle-sub-frame.html

      Roy

If the upper control arm and coil spring were installed with the support brace as per the shop manual then the front suspension would not be hanging as referenced in the link. In the case of the brace the suspension for all practical purposes would be preloaded. Hanging front suspense is bad news for many reasons as has been talked about in previous threads. 

I'm getting confused. You start out talking about the front end being off and then you start talking about the rear end so I don't know what you are trying to fix. Please clarify. Maybe I'm just getting to old 😕

       Roy

re read post #7

I might have a bead on an old Ford three-two barrel setup and was wondering if it would add some decent power to the car.  As everyone probably knows by now, my car is a day two car with a 302 roller rocker setup. Edelbrock midrise intake and Holley 650 double pumper currently. (Original Cobra intake in closet with engine).  I believe that the Monte Carlo bar would clear such a setup though it would be a close shave.  I'd rather keep the original bar intact than go for a curve at the center of the bar that defeats the purpose.

I would go with different heads before I tried to reinvent the wheel with the tri power setup. Especially if you wanted more power and still a somewhat original look. The heads will not look so out of place like a tri power set up will . The 650 double pumper and linkage is a no brainer . The tri power not so much. Just my 2 cents you do you. 

After all of this debate on possible culprits, if the symptom continues to happen changing out the pump is the first thing that I would try. Of course that is just me that has had to deal with similar symptoms on many cars over decades. You do what you think best. I think that the rebuilt pump core is around 83.00 from NAPA with your core exchange. New is 220 with no core. Or you can send out your pump with your reservoir(if its the correct one) to Rodes Restoration (Roger Rodes)419-468-5182 who has been doing this for decades and you will get back what you sent. If you think it is original to the car that is important IMO and so confirm that you want yours back with Roger. I think the rebuilding of your original pump (if you think so ) is the best option  IMO.

Engine is a late 80s 302 that came out of a Mustang drag car.  So a five liter Fox body type 302 thermostat is what I will need.

The one I posted a link to is the small thermostat which will work in the housing that you have. Getting to the root cause of a overheating problem and fixing that is always good but sometimes it is a trick in figuring that out. Somethings things like overbored engine or engine block with scale in the water passages can be difficult to fix short of tearing apart the entire engine. If the inexpensive thermostat fixes the symptoms then some people are satisfied with that rather then finding the root cause. The debate goes on as to what degree to use. To each their own. I know what has worked for me after listening to all of the debate. Use your best judgement on what to do. 

There is a Ford large diameter thermostat that was used up to and including 1966 production and a smaller thermostat that started being used starting in 1967 production. You need to be certain which thermostat housing you have.Maybe post a picture or check the casting numbers . The summit part I posted a link to is for the smaller thermostat. 

I seem to have a small coolant leak.  Could be around the thermostat housing.  While at it I am looking to replace the thermostat and I saw a recommendation of 195 to fix any potential overheating problems.  Thoughts?

This is my go to thermostat. It is a 180 degree high flow design .Used successfully on many cars for decades by me and many others .https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-4364

Doesn't have to be hot, but definitely don't overfill

The dipstick reads "check hot" however I agree it doesn't have to be but don't over fill.

For sale an original master cylinder. Bendix number 2227091. Date code 249.

Price: 450$ + shipment.

Isn't that a later service replacement master cylinder since the assemblyline master cylinders typically have the cone shaped stop bolt on the bottom side instead of being blocked off like in the picture ?

Yes, RUG-S is correct. The last six characters (or is it four?) of the Ford VIN should be stamped on the boss of the main case just in front of the extension housing.

I have seen almost entire vin stamped before but not seen less then the last 4 .

Satin or shiny chrome?  I have the shiny chrome on at the moment which I suspect are aftermarket.  I also have a pair of satin which appear to be original. 

Polished stainless is what was used on 1965 Mustang/Shelby .It is shiny but not chrome plated.  For 66 production it was a Federal requirement that all wiper blades and arms be of the satin stainless from that point on.