Messages

If I haven't told you "great job on that website"

Tony,

Thanks for the compliment, much appreciated.  I'm still writing up the procedure on how to flush the block.  There will be plenty of pictures to illustrate the process.  And instructions on how to duplicate the tooling I had to build to do the job properly.  Nothing exotic, just simple hand tools.

How to flush the block?  Information I need to know.

I need to really learn the ins and outs of carburetors first.  I have two Holleys sitting around and plan to deconstruct one to see what makes it tick.  I have a rudimentary comprehension of how they work but need to take the deep dive.

Exhibit "A" for identification. P21S. Great wax.

Thank you for all of your insights gentlemen. I have decided to leave it alone and stick to the 650 double pumper.

I think the only reason it's overheating is because antifreeze has been leaking out. Still a new thermostat is no doubt due and I got a radiator cap as well. Will see. Taly ho!

The three-2 setup would look good and once properly set up will be very driveable. The Monte Carlo bar will have to be removed to clear the air cleaner.

I really don't want to remove that bar. What about individual air cleaners being one over each carburetor?

Just drove out onto the driveway for a wash and carnauba wax beginning...now...

Engine is a late 80s 302 that came out of a Mustang drag car.  So a five liter Fox body type 302 thermostat is what I will need.

I might have a bead on an old Ford three-two barrel setup and was wondering if it would add some decent power to the car.  As everyone probably knows by now, my car is a day two car with a 302 roller rocker setup. Edelbrock midrise intake and Holley 650 double pumper currently. (Original Cobra intake in closet with engine).  I believe that the Monte Carlo bar would clear such a setup though it would be a close shave.  I'd rather keep the original bar intact than go for a curve at the center of the bar that defeats the purpose.

I seem to have a small coolant leak.  Could be around the thermostat housing.  While at it I am looking to replace the thermostat and I saw a recommendation of 195 to fix any potential overheating problems.  Thoughts?

Great tutorial,  keep them coming!

Welcome. Everyone on this site has done this. Like child's play for them. A new experience for me. Very rewarding when it works.  I also suspect my turning radius counterclockwise has diminished because the wheel was not centered during the alignment. A lot of thought went into making these cars. I remain very impressed with this car.

So as I thought more about your observations Mr. Turner, does the mark being more to the left when the alignment was done therefore translate to my steering wheel being unable to turn full left to its maximum lock and being able to turn too far over to the right?  That sounds a bit perilous.

Thanks for the pics.  That Porsche GTLM is pretty hot!

When the front end is properly aligned, the steering box shaft index mark should point to the 12 o'clock position.  This centers the worm gear/sector shaft the same turns lock to lock.  There is a mark on the steering wheel where the marks should line up.  I'd put the steering wheel on the proper alignment to the shaft and take it back to whoever did the alignment and have them re-do it.

Thank you for the information.  I had it aligned a while ago like maybe four years ago maybe more.  I will take it for another alignment, somewhere else.  Slow and steady wins the race.  My friend RIP always asked what about "Fast and steady?"

If that is your idea of a Burrito you must be north of the 37th Parallel

BTW I got gas here in SoCal today for $1.39........ @ Taco Bell

I recommend - https://www.casadelreymexicanrestaurant.com/burrito-logo

Lol!  We all know gas is like what, $10 a gallon for 87 octane there?