Has anyone decided not to hook-up their ammeter gauge? I am ready to install it, but after reading so many "warnings" about fires etc., and no inline fuse for the ammeter, I am questioning whether I should even hook it up. What is the concensus of those driving their cars?
Thanks
Ron
I have the same question. Mine is hooked up, but even with Coralsnake's excellent wiring harnesses in my KR, I'm a bit wary.
Wow. I had no idea. I have mine hooked up, and I never knew there were risks! :(
Quote from: rbarkley on November 25, 2019, 07:51:05 PM
Has anyone decided not to hook-up their ammeter gauge? I am ready to install it, but after reading so many "warnings" about fires etc., and no inline fuse for the ammeter, I am questioning whether I should even hook it up. What is the concensus of those driving their cars?
Thanks
Ron
Ron,I am wondering if you are confusing the early car aircraft sourced terminal block with the insulator wafer on the bottom with the more typical one that Ford made and used on the vast majority of 67 and all 68 Shelby's? The early style if installed without the insulating wafer could result in a catastrophic electrical fire.Thousands of amp gauges installed in 67 and 68 Shelby's with just anecdotal stories about problems indicate it is not much of a issue for the vast majority. Many owners hook the gauge up wrong where it does not work is the most common problem . All of the power for the car has to run through the gauge for it to work properly.I am sure there are some out there but I don't remember coming across one that wasn't hooked up on purpose. I have seen quite a few 67 and 68 Shelby's
Maybe I'm overly concerned, but there's a lot of current going through that old gauge.
Personally, I prefer an ammeter for a more accurate reading of my charging system's activity, versus just a voltage reading, but...
The best thing you can do to decrease the chances of heat or fire is to make sure the connectors at the gauge and terminal block are clean, tight and crimped well. Even to the point of adding solder to the connector crimps. Also star washers under connectors at the gauge help insure a tight low resistance connection. Loose or corroded connections create a high resistance point in the circuit that can melt wires or possibly cause a fire.
Make sure there is a suitable grommet in the firewall so the wires are protected from chafing.
Dave
Mine has been connected for almost 30 years, with no problems. As previously stated, I just made sure the routing was correct, tight connections, and clean. Also, after every drive I check everything to make sure all is okay. One never knows with a 50 plus year old car.
Why not just put an inline fuse in the wire to the amp gauge? That's what I did on 6S550, and our '66 convertible, after the amp gauge on the '66 convertible shorted internally and caused an electrical fire. Ron
I also insulated the inside of the pod with rubber insulation. I wouldn't be concerned with a 60 amp alternator causing the gauge pod to burst into flames. The adhesive rubber insulation and being mindful of terminal location on the gauge as well insulating other than the wrap at the grommet though the firewall is adequate.
-Keith
Quote from: greekz on November 26, 2019, 12:19:13 PM
Mine has been connected for almost 30 years, with no problems. As previously stated, I just made sure the routing was correct, tight connections, and clean. Also, after every drive I check everything to make sure all is okay. One never knows with a 50 plus year old car.
3120 never had any problems until I took it out last fall and suddenly, no start, no lights, no horn, no nothing. Disconnected and bypassed ammeter, everything works (except ammeter). Not sure about taking case apart, any suggestions?
Quote from: jguyer on December 08, 2019, 04:27:39 PM
Quote from: greekz on November 26, 2019, 12:19:13 PM
Mine has been connected for almost 30 years, with no problems. As previously stated, I just made sure the routing was correct, tight connections, and clean. Also, after every drive I check everything to make sure all is okay. One never knows with a 50 plus year old car.
3120 never had any problems until I took it out last fall and suddenly, no start, no lights, no horn, no nothing. Disconnected and bypassed ammeter, everything works (except ammeter). Not sure about taking case apart, any suggestions?
Too bad you had to be the guy but the amp gauges rarely fail in comparison to the oil pressure gauges. FYI having a defective amp gauge restored by one of the reputable instrument companies will cost as much or more then what you can typically buy a nice used gauge for on the secondary market. Just what I have experienced.