Hello, I've been working on my restoration (slowly) of 2227 for the last 3 years. I prefer to use either NOS or assembly line parts when able. One of the most difficult parts to find (my experience) would be an original assembly line or over the ford parts counter rear valance. i purchased a valance about 2 years ago and then another one yesterday in Atlanta. Not that i needed a 2nd valance but when I saw the date code in the metal I knew it was an OEM part and I wanted it. When I arrive home I compared the two units and noticed a difference with the holes to bolt the valance to the lower part of the tail panel. It could be different assembly plants used different styles? I'm no expert on rear 1966 valances but I know many of the forum have this knowledge. notice one has slots and the other has a round holes. I only took pics of the center on the valance which displays the stamped date code and examples of the different screw holes. if someone wants me to load more pictures I can. BTW Yes both valances have the cut outs for back up light and they both look machined punched. Also, I was told at the Carlisle national ford show last year that 1966 valances with the cut out for BU lights were not available NOS? Easy to find with No BU light cut outs or exhaust cut outs. specifically I'm asking about the style of valance used on a 1966 GT-350's.
Please let me summarize my questions: 1) are these original parts displayed in pics? 2) what are the differences with the two valances? (based off screw holes) 3) is this part available NOS? 4) which style valance would be correct for my san jose car?
Lastly, Thank you for reading my long post and I really appreciate your feedback.
Pic 1.2
Pic 3
To answer your questions, they are both probably original.
You will find the oval holes on the earlier cars.
Usually, a bit into the '66 production, I have found that you will start seeing the valances with the round holes. Lots of times these valances used a screw like shown in the picture below. This is a picture of the original valance and screws on 6S1732. I would expect to see the same ones on your car, 6S2227.
Most of the NOS Ford rear valances that I have seen will have the round hole. Sometimes though, you will find earlier NOS versions with red primer and the oval holes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPY158CGxgyUTQRgTKs68CB89SQBdWIesD6A29KZb0kYpfuWHhbE7h-xOGNvZFvagBNWF-WHWayT9sgyhFnuy9v5yLakdCP07rRX8LluELvBqDaca_qFWihzBCHKA6egubQqotvXaWstlPvIbVDTAxg4j2zugrNw_HJWlnaqgj9WU8Nqtuhcm2Pokx3-WBGgtptQonZL_zbZTGfupTOpe9AmDdL5BVlME3NQ4emnrNXlzNYNiTeRkMDrLqMetesqymR0IjJovP_vc4MRFHrYXeIyKJ-rfpJYK-GRR2fIeWd76-CT-y6IcdLDILtoCwucNUT63qg0zmNRej0cCqNU00FK4DoHT9LL17I-1cHByKoeV3bF-TW57HrgpI16hoicFUvAvDcw42-PYDVm8xKyKy9kk7kahefQw1tc2wIAQoPIsTbZEA04HNgI7hqZlTqczfcbIpSpZ9tYA43nAYEGYLwmj6caH7AQ6hOUb3zqTQTpJfbcY8qwBiYk7tDSVgeBHlaMb67cGYTpnUH_woK4Wol7v20Bt2aFSJ7i6Co1oE9oj7OIpEcSGa-fCLKaZXDWuMDeN89b7QQFIm2Q67xNRIF62NMpFKN_pDVu7zJ_RKsz3XZ1mhzprZ2gS8oS0SH4p-r-CNP1Mbt949dvc4a683szbq7HhCanBHHAuPZcgN8XD8VICkDn7Cx21o3mKOjhU2SlZM5c8t_8WQTTwGO8mqpi2oiID-8JamzpQyiB4-4L_zoW04n3zted5nhdLM_KfQGclfCTFuH1cgm960GM57qBJg7fr-9SqXh8BsPc2yqK4yWL34JXCBBmnKUTtVlGPOY9F-wGjfaiJpkA-jIVEdWc4yru82XZLLEEiUQiwVToSmvsu-neg-v7LbOBTeDs6cJpzTVm6N7WPBk8RRW-e-6=w800)
I will add that you will usually find that the valances with oval holes using a screw with a flange.
Here is a picture of the original rear valance and screws on 5S162:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPpJVRXgbWUAa6aPBgcfoyocJgbZsWHPCwWHLjgBYKHzTT0rvRyt3KpceGdc2npdrn5kHYLMYfzy1TnlnDnpNSy1kFbaKaZIJJFq2waexu5nyYunfuJhBrBMsiEKQaFS4A9ZrDhiCatk6uBmOifbn15dS1vcjdXpbtVyLNO7MWvsG-851qnq4OMzRo24Sr9pBxA3bRHG4qcvGpzBMb-_ZETk_FxucxdinvwFOvafXFTAZQ95yIgeyCY3BQ30eOPWyNunf_AsGWbpg-JXc161WRSg17AdzsIHTEhWDIUh8nMhhfQMXWEXjcQgmzXFRGoTHQ_Fgj0C9fzpR2u3g4vp5KrhCRgGfhkDQFDL1KoazkfGSPcZDjyJGrlxeo8Cy1J2Q-FAsrvcXSomgp2EW1GwpuSkOWe96f4lgMj5M9ZdjcUFx1YhSJn9t4SJAaElNjTixl77L0fwQp18PjKyUPM43Cmjmziko4eYrnt89VDbkAoDthMhoFj3fS6eeJnzW66hg4KoRrd4j-ACDmCWezPsqDq9aXvbypaCfTQlcmGwcNH2cWct0K13ZX2YngWCkREnY58hM3ZqKc3Reo9wa3zIIQGBmDll5BqcQnuek2p1uDUgyKAjq3VcIUww70c5Ao8CuVHALhXySzBy1Wa4inNXTArsTANFL78taiV7GQFKDDaDLoBvtQy_Ge9hYAZes_X3orjYReJZuB52NTLtq9u2kuLnhgekKQx2zxFZ3dqq19ggQkwRSj0o3YlMEdWUKnbs3CR7AEiRT9IG5RpGhK7S79-2O3JKWNkpemUqSVt92iCWuU7cPPqzAqXEza10FrmhisbG4pqOANdRopIDD4VWvQxFjP70YDrFPIlGGCCp_ERM9lwsPavohqHqk1Rxgh5P3ZObZkXsSBukAqiihha4QPr=w800)
Thanks brant. Adding one more pic.
By the time your car was originally built as mentioned a rear valance with round holes was installed. Dating these panels can be fun since they typically have two dates stamped in the metal. One from the rear (as the panel is mounted) and one from the exterior side. Both at or near the upper edge.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/6-250324173821-202741564.jpeg)
By the time the car was built there were two different types/styles of attaching screws used. One style (flat headed) installed when the valance was attached to the unibody before the car was painted. These two screws were typically installed in the second or third hole from each end of the valance. The rest of the screws (pan heads) were installed after the car was painted and the valance was pulled into the unibody at the bottom and these upper screws installed
Unrestored example very close to your cars assembly period..
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/6-250324172950-202731105.jpeg)
I would say that the rear valances with the back up light holes were in the service parts system during and just after the cars were produced. Left overs and addition ones made from production of the cars but long term it didn't make much sense to produce and stock two versions since it would just increase stocking costs and other things.
Jeff thank you and brant for the great detailed
information. If someone
has side profile pictures of both types of screws it would be appreciated if post images to this thread. Jeff couple more questions. When owners restore these cars do the have some of the different styled screws body color and the others not? 2nd question.... why didn't the factory put all the screws in at once? What was the value of just some pan head screws being installed prior painting. Seems like all screws would be installed at same time. Thanks again for everyone's amazing knowledge. Fred
Quote from: rraceme on March 26, 2024, 06:49:52 PM
Jeff couple more questions. When owners restore these cars do the have some of the different styled screws body color and the others not?
Yes the goal or task is restore these and other cars to as they were originally built so yes this will very likely be looked at shows were there are judges that are familiar with 66 San Jose/Shelby production.
Guess the question would be, why would a restorer not want to duplicate this detail other others and still refer to their efforts as restoring
Quote from: rraceme on March 26, 2024, 06:49:52 PM2nd question.... why didn't the factory put all the screws in at once? What was the value of just some pan head screws being installed prior painting. Seems like all screws would be installed at same time. Thanks again for everyone's amazing knowledge. Fred
Wasn't there and have not found and talked to the guy that made that decision. To us 50 years it might seem obvious as to what would be best or easiest but we were not there. Maybe this quickened up the rear valance installation so that part of the line could keep up. It is interesting that the other two Mustangs plant did install all of the top screws prior to paint. Don't know why that happened either :)
Here are some shots of the two screw heads from an angle. Hope this helps. As the note says ignore the finish of the screws in the pictures. These were taken from different applications but the type/style of screw heads are what the focus is. The flat style is often used to retain the door upper weatherstrip stainless to the body on some applications and years. Just a place to find them
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/6-260324204344-202751521.jpeg)
That Flat Top Screw looks a LOT like the Screw GM used on their Mid 70's Thru 80's Door Panels. The are Short Screws (maybe 1/2") and worked great to Mounting the "Bond On" Hood Scoops on Cars that had the 1" Lip if you didn't want to Bond the Scoop onto the Hood.
The flat style screws are readily available new.
We carry them.
https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/Convertible-Well-Liner-Rear-Valance-Roof-Rail-Trim-Screws-set-of-11-P3525.aspx
The ones with the smaller heads are not difficult to find.
I will note that 6S1732 also has the flat style on the third screw (at the bumper guard) on each side.
Originally, the rear valance was hung in place and sprayed body color, which explains a few screws being painted.
If possible, it always a great idea to document all original details on a car when taking it apart. Even cars that have been "messed with" over the years retain some valuable original details. This includes paint colors and overspray patterns on the underside.
All to often, the disassembly process and stripping process occurs too quickly and without documentation. There is absolutely no substitute for duplicating original details to the particular car. It is unfortunately rarely done this way.
Brant. Thank you for the feedback. I realize you are not directly telling me to take pictures rather stating generally this is a good strategy. Yes I've taken over 800 photos prior to disassembly. Unfortunately the rear valance was Not on the car when I purchasped it. But yes I agree with suggestion to document everything prior disassembly. Thanks fred