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It is entirely possible that I am wrong on this BUT I am not a novice at all.

The DESIRED compression readings should be in the 125 to 135 psi range.

The readings you are posting are WAY TOO HIGH. They are APPROACHING (but not quite there) what you would expect to see in a diesel engine.

Diesel engines work without spark. They just compress the fuel with high pressure until it explodes.


The largest component in high readings like yours is the camshaft timing. I would say that it does not have enough overlap, i.e., the intake and exhaust open at the same time to permit the compression to bleed out.

All that you are going to get with those numbers that you have is an engine that can not run on pump gas as we know it and an engine that is difficult to turn over hot on a restart.


As I said, I may be completely wrong here on this but I don't think so. I've gone through this so much more then just a few times myself.

In any case, that engine is showing good compression and more then likely could use a nice "valve job" and new valve train components and those procedures will balance out the compression to a great deal.

Only time I would expect to sell something at a discount to a dealer would be when I contacted the dealer directly to inquire if they're interested in purchasing.  Totally get that they have to make a profit.  This is only necessary when fire-selling or need to unload quickly... or have a lot of items to unload at once.

Some of the prices I've been seeing on parts over the past few years will take your breath away.  I'm not sure if I'm out of line on the bezel, it seems like a lot, but I haven't seen one of these offered this nice in a long time.  Seems most of the available NOS stock these days are the 2nds/3rds/4ths...

I'm not criticizing anyone's asking price on anything. There is no Kelly Blue Book on parts. It is not really a simple task to set a price on something and is an educated guess at best.

If we presume that the claimed new high selling point of a part that someone ha is a 10 out of 10, IF presuming there is even a such thing, then how do you set a price on a 8 out of 10?

Logically it is not at 50% or lower. It should be around 80% but that is not what the current market is indicating. It's more like "garage sale" and people are showing up offering you 25 cents for that old LIFE magazine.


About 1978, there was a local guy that was coming to the SOA meetings. He had just purchased a pretty nice white 4 speed 67 GT500.

He loved to come to the meets and point out that he had bought it for $800. He just loved to aggravate everyone with that. I haven't seen him in years.

I wonder if he resold the car and got more then $800 for it?

I think that maybe at this moment, there is a "bah humbug" thing going on and my '67 GT500 parts for sale are only '67 Mustang parts for sale in the eyes of the current quality of buyers. Maybe right there that's the current problem?

The quality of the buyers isn't there at the moment? Lots of parts are going unsold and people are only looking for what we used to refer to as "fire sales"?

Eh. Enough bitching on my part. It isn't my intention to ruin anyone's day. Complaining though does seem to be an indication of some sort of recovery?

Incidentally. I lock my for sale ads so nobody like me can come along and ruin your sale. My apologies.

I wish you guys would hold off on selling your NOS 68 stuff.  I'm trying to buy a 68 but have to wait until spring to see if I get it. By then all the NOS stuff will be gone. Maybe I need to tell Seraphim he needs doubles(well it would be triples on some parts).

Well I think that you are very courageous to consider a new project? Speaking for myself only, frankly, I'm priced out now and it is getting worse.

To add insult to injury, potential buyers of my parts tell me that I'm out of line with my asking prices and suggest that the market values are more like 25 cents on a dollar to what I want for them?


IN FACT I had one "dealer" tell me WTF do I think I am? I need to sell my parts to him at a "wholesale price", whatever that is, so he could turn around and sell it for "retail" and that he was justified in the price because he was a dealer?


So apparently as a seller now, it depends on who you are and if you are nobody like me, your parts are just worth junk prices?


I think that is worth thinking about for anyone looking to get into a new project if you have any hopes of finishing it accurately without having to use "jabonga" aftermarket stuff to get it finished?

I have always found it humorous since the advent of social media that there are those who think you should sell at a discount because they are dealers. Now at a Frank "bundling" I'd like to get a discount but that would be for a lot of parts as in a whole "lot" of parts so then a seller could decide is it worth offering a discount so these are all gone at once(time is money) or not? Yeah, a project these days scare me more so than 15 years ago but when you find a 1 owner 30K mile car sitting since the early 70s in a great color and manual well... I won't restore my 428 SCJ 4 speed candy apple Mach1 because the price of  original parts missing  and my labor and the price of a paint job does not justify me doing that to my car. a #3 car that shows great from 10 feet away but has it's warts because it was restored around 1990(is that correct Dan?) and abused at SAAC events on the east coast mostly. i'll just continue enjoying it for now as is.

...OR that YOU can't get that kind of a price for YOUR car because those were AUCTION PRICES...but I'll give you HALF of that!

Maybe there are just some truths coming out of the "auctions"? One thing that the "auction people" will say, "the car didn't bring the expected price because "the right buyer wasn't in the building"?


The same with some parts. It is only worth "that" to the "right buyer" and you just need to hold out until they appear.

Honestly though, the higher the parts go, the smaller the market becomes.

The folks that bought a '67 GT500 40 years ago for $500 and are just getting around to "restoring it" now are gonna' have some financial issues that can not be rolled back 40 years.

I wish you guys would hold off on selling your NOS 68 stuff.  I'm trying to buy a 68 but have to wait until spring to see if I get it. By then all the NOS stuff will be gone. Maybe I need to tell Seraphim he needs doubles(well it would be triples on some parts).

Well I think that you are very courageous to consider a new project? Speaking for myself only, frankly, I'm priced out now and it is getting worse.

To add insult to injury, potential buyers of my parts tell me that I'm out of line with my asking prices and suggest that the market values are more like 25 cents on a dollar to what I want for them?


IN FACT I had one "dealer" tell me WTF do I think I am? I need to sell my parts to him at a "wholesale price", whatever that is, so he could turn around and sell it for "retail" and that he was justified in the price because he was a dealer?


So apparently as a seller now, it depends on who you are and if you are nobody like me, your parts are just worth junk prices?


I think that is worth thinking about for anyone looking to get into a new project if you have any hopes of finishing it accurately without having to use "jabonga" aftermarket stuff to get it finished?

Well probably a '68. I don't think that the '67 is in that part of the country but I would not automatically assume the news report was in error?

Harvey  Phillip Spector, the eccentric and revolutionary music producer who transformed rock music with his "Wall of Sound" method and who later was convicted of murder owned the daytona coupe cobra

Why was the Exhaust done like that?

I would say that the location was for accessibility and tucked in was for aerodynamics. You would need to inquire with Mr.Brock specifically.

He will have a reason. He did nothing without a specific reason or consideration.

        This endeavor of creating a wide-ratio big-block application Top-Loader isn't really new; we had this conversion in the ol' '70 Shelby back in the '70's (w/ 4.56's or 4.88's (depending on the tire) out back); the gear conversion was different as executed, at that time by Liberty Transmissions, but the result is the same.   

        Scott.

The answer always seemed obvious to me. 4 forward speeds isn't enough.

Yours is an interesting concept. I'm curious to see the final evaluation that you have.

Necessity is the Mother of invention. I have lived that approach myself many times.

I have found that often the results lacked the exultation of the excitement of the path to the solution.

Here's hoping for a fantastic result? 

What fan clutch is that? C7ZX?

Is the clutch included or is that price for just the fan?

Somewhere out there I recall a photo of a 66 with dual quads where the monte carlo bar ran through the ail cleaner. Maybe Jeff Burgy's car?

Yes Burgy's but 3x2.

These are all Holley "1850" regardless of what you id them as.

If you mount them backwards the front carb is just 1/2" farther away from the distributor cap.

I've run them both ways, front or reverse and the difference is just a linkage simplification thing. Front is simpler with no possibility of the linkage jambing wide open.

I never had a '66 so I don't know what the clearance issue is.

I have seen clearance issues with the Cobra oval air cleaner on later cars.

These are non-stock set ups so there is fabrication involved in making adjustments but in my view is not complicated.

Rather then drill new hole in a '66, the mounting bracket on the bar can be changed to relocate the bar for clearance and use the existing holes. That's the way I would go in that situation if possible.

What did Shelby do on the 66 G[ II cars?

Mine fits with no issues with the dual point distributor and dual fours.

The Cobra oval air cleaner fits over the bar.

I don't see the issue that requires a looped bar.

The bellhouse you want to look for is C6OA-6394-D. There are early versions and later versions that vary in the way that the fork pivot is mounted.

You want to get one near your Ford build date. That will basically determine which one you need.

It is unclear if these were made in batches or consistantly throughout the model year. In looking for one myself, it seemed suspicious that the closest date was either three months too early or three months too late.

It looks like this and is made to take the big 12" clutch although smaller ones will fit. The 12" Ford "pressure plate" is a monster and needs additional clearance internally which this bell provides.



They are unique to the BB 4 speed manual and as a result are not common. Probably less common then to be expected since the thing is cast iron and heavy. Back in the day if you raced the car at all you probably would have used a Lakewood blow-proof bell. We called them "scattershields" and were required by most race tracks as a safety measure. So chances are many got trashed back then?

As with almost everything special to a Ford BB, they are expensive when you can find them. 4 speed manual 428's and even 390 GT's do not have huge production numbers and although service replacements certainly existed, they are rare. Even more so when you are date searching.

Late '67 dates don't show up too often or at all in my case, needing a June '67. April, "C" codes seem to be the most common of the '67s that I came across which suggested to me they were made in batches, correctly or incorrectly.


Find more information that you need at Mustangtek.com

It is important to understand the terms.

At one period of time the term of positive or negative offset were reversed from what we use today...just to add more confusion to the matter.

Your friend would be best to stay with the same offset that the Magnums provide with an aftermarket wheel of any type. That will maximize his options or minimize the issues. 


To the best of my memory both the Minilites and the Americans had positive offsets of about +1/2".

One way of dealing with a tire to fender interference issue would be to change the tire profile. That likely in this case would mean that you go from a 235-60-15 to a 225-50-15.

Since the outside diameter of the 50 series is less then the 60, it would be"shorter" or in effect lower the front of the car. That could be about 1" in the case of those two tire profiles which for a street car is actually quite a bit and maybe more then you would want to do?


SOME of these changes seem insignificant to the casual observer but at least in the case of a vintage Mustang can be quite dramatic of a change.

I actually did this change on my Pantera and the end result of just changing tire profiles lowered the height of the car at the roof level about 2". A total of just under 42" at the top of the roof line.

That's fine for looks but it emphasizes the ground clearance issue of the lower radiator support in the front, under the nose.

The hoop will allow flex where the straight bar will not . That hoop all but negates the purpose at that point . By negating the stiffness purpose with the hoop it becomes more cosmetic at that point. As cosmetic things go under the hood it looks embarrassing and silly to me .

     +1   

     Scott.

+1,000.