Topics

Hi All,
I have been monitoring Ebay for several years and checked with all the usual License Plate frame guys and have yet to see a Ron's Ford (Bristol, TN.) license plate frame.. Can anyone confirm for me that they exist? As this was where my car was shipped to from the factory I would love to find a frame for it! Any leads would be appreciated!
Cheers,
John

Hi guys,
What does the "club" consider correct for an oil filter on a 65?  I have seen Red Rotunda's, Gold 6000 mile Rotunda's, and rarely, The Black rotunda with the yellow writing. Yet to see a black one appear on eBay but certainly you can get NOS or re-pop red and gold ones....  Time for an oil change so I'm gonna need a new filter..
Cheers,
John

At last year's national convention in Sonoma I had my car judged and I received NO deduction for having my master cylinder painted black (Base and Top cover). I Was told by a couple folks that this was correct and apparently the judges agreed.  At a recent Local Shelby gathering I had a couple "so Called" experts argue that it should be Natural with a Gold Cad Top cover. Opinions anyone???   I had heard that Shelby removed them to re-do the brakes after taking delivery from San Jose and painted them black so they didn't rust while they were "waiting" to be put back in the car?? Any truth to that??
Cheers,
John

Hi Guys! It was great to meet some of you at SAAC 43! I had my car judged so I could begin to understand all the small things that it needs to make it as original as possible. One of the things that was pointed out was a note that my Z bar was bent. I know this is very common and it's an easily obtainable part to correct. The questions however I have is that I think (although Charles or John who judged the car couldn't actually remember) that what they saw was NOT that the upper or lower arm was bent BUT that the position of the "tube" part of the z bar was not perpendicular between the frame and the block. I believe that when I bought the car it was "off" by a bit and after rebuilding the motor and putting it back in it is still not at 90 degrees between the frame and the block.. Should it be? As you know, the mount on the frame is designed only to move inboard and outboard to allow for putting the bar in place. In order to get mine to be at 90 degrees to the frame I appear to need to pull my motor forward by somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4" The issue with that is that the header on the drivers side is already too close the shock tower, the Air cleaner is almost touching the Monte Carlo bar  and there isn't any room for forward movement! Your thoughts are ALWAYS appreciated...
Cheers,
John

HI guys!
I have my car back up and running after a fresh engine, tranny and rear end rebuild. Here's the short story. I just pulled off my headers to take them back to Sanderson who did a crappy job ceramic coating them black. What I noticed when I removed them (I have run the car for about 50 miles and it seemed to run great) is that the most rearward cylinder on each header is clearly running ultra lean. There is consistently similar carbon distribution on the first 3 ports and almost NO visible carbon on the last port on each side. The motor seemed to idle fine so I don't suspect that there is a vacuum leak on both sides (I will check)  So I'm thinking that I might have a fuel distribution issue? My thought is to try a phenolic spacer under the carb and see what that does. Any other thoughts you all have would be helpful. Something amiss in the manifold? Anybody running a spacer on an otherwise completely stock setup? Will it fit under the hood? Truth is I'd really like to keep the car completely stock without a spacer but clearly something is amiss....
Cheers and thanks in advance,
John

Hi all.. I'm sure this has been discussed at length so forgive me for my lousy search capabilities.. I've got some issues with my left front geometry. I have just finished completely rebuilding my front end with mostly NOS parts. There were some drake re-pop stuff (lower control arms) that have been replaced. Prior to this rebuild I could run blue dots or Avon 205/70/15 on my cragars with no issues. The left front wheel arch had less than 1/4" of clearance up at the front (close to the headlight end) between it and the "front" on the tires. But, I rarely if ever had any rubbing. The right has much better clearance. Maybe a solid 3/4 -1" in the same spot. Now after the re-build I have a rubbing/clearance issue on the left. The issue is exacerbated since I bought some Torq Thrust wheels to put the Avon's on. (Model VN105) They have a different offset than the cragars.  The alignment is within spec. The other issue I have noticed which may or may not have existed prior to the rebuild is that the wheelbase is 1/2" longer on the left than the right. While most "street cars" have some variance I expect 1/2" is a little extreme. It appears that I need to move the upper and lower control arms back towards the firewall a bit to solve this problem. Yes I put the same number of shims in the front and rear of the upper as there were before the rebuild. In order to move the upper back if I remove the shims it appears that I will need to "shorten" the rear stud on the upper control arm to allow for clearance for the headers. Right now the end of the stud is essentially a business card away from touching the header. OK soooo Have any of you guys done this or had to do this? I"m told these "differences" are common on 65's? If I shorten the rear stud on the upper control arm (allowing me to use less shims) I can see that solving the issue for the upper. What is the best way to move the lower control arm towards the firewall?? Add washers on the front of the stabilizer strut? Something different? Am I looking at this the wrong way??? Your thoughts are always appreciated!!!!
Cheers,
John