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For some reason, the website has not notified me of the ongoing and most interesting discussion about what I thought was a straightforward question, regarding the oil change in my KR. The car is a correct and original CJ with A/C and oil cooler. My plan was to put in 5 quarts, drive it, and recheck the dipstick. I always like to drive my car "granny style" until I know she's fully warmed up, and then some modest, spirited of driving, but only for short runs, followed by cruising. In Houston Texas there's not much place to really drive, so it's not uncommon to have a bit of stop and go traffic. Thanks for all the information. Much appreciated Steve..

Look, your dimensions are not different than mine as we both have 428 CJ engines(SCJ but the same oil wise to a dip stick). I'd use the excellent reference on the 428 CJ forum on having the revised dipstick or remarking your current one.

Thanks Pete.

 
[/quote]Thank you Bob.
I'm a 1970 428 CJ, Dearborn built in 12/1969, no oil cooler but with AC, PS, PDB, C6.   I've don't drive it hard, and hardly at all come to think about it.  It has the windage tray on it.  Years ago I filled it with 6 quarts and etched a line on the dipstick and go by that line.  It doesn't burn oil or leak (much) so on the oil change I dump in the 6 quarts, warm it up and check the level.  I guess it's been working for me for 20 years now as I've not had the engine open in 30 years.   
[/quote]I marked my dipstick like they show on the CJ page but I also am running an oil cooler on my 69 SCJ so more going on there.

OK, I know the finishes on these parts as they pertain to service parts(clear zinc I believe on Zbar components and black paint on mounts). so what were they from the factory for a GT500 428.
Z-bar
Z-bar frame mount
Z-bar engine mount
engine frame mounts
engine engine mounts(bolts to block)
Engine insulators.
is there a correct paint code for the steel wheels?
Tail light panel paint code(have original paint on mine)
Thanks in advance.

Nothing fits like original.  Im sure a member here could sell you a period set. Something to consider.

depends as in some parts are made off of original tooling. I got a set of repo 428CJ exhaust manifold that are just perfect looking but they are there for the day 2 look as I'll never put the smog or manifolds back on the car. They will be trunk items on my Mach1.

wow, 9,999.00 for an owners manual?     I'm glad I got my original one with all the owner's and selling dealer info typed inside of it and the original bill of sale and a copy of the original title before it was turned in a few weeks ago. Funny in that now I've owned 2 68s out of Stark Hickey Ford.

Yes, thank you.

Here you go.

I know this is an old post but would be helpful to see a pic of the underside of console lid that screws to the console plate. Is the vinyl stapled or glued on?I'm having my lid cover restored, so I bought a reproduction from Branda in the interim and seems like it's missing padding material.

If you wait a few days I'll have an original untouched console from a late Jan car I can see.

Hi
What do you think the value of all the parts are worth
Seeing if it variable to do a package deal

You would need to know what all was included. Given he wrote too much to list you can only assume that there is more then in the pictures.

It basically all the pieces in the pictures plus a couple of emblems and a damage fender
He is flipping the parts for profit

Damn right flipping. If you can find the original seller in Wisconsin I hear he has more parts. The guy hoarded spare parts for his 69 Shelby and sold the car. Then sold Grant the parts. I could have seen all the parts last Monday but chose not to go as too busy to waste my time at the moment because of his weird way of selling.

Hi
What do you think the value of all the parts are worth
Seeing if it variable to do a package deal

You would need to know what all was included. Given he wrote too much to list you can only assume that there is more then in the pictures.

There is more. I talked to a friend(well known SAAC guy) on Saturday at the Spring fling and he offered him top dollar for a pair of 70 NOS doors in the box and the guy said he wanted more than double that.

Hi
Has anyone got hold of him
I tried but can't get hold of him

I know him. He was over my house the other week picking up some parts I didn't want to sell but....

Exactly , how does one know if he really has a bidder or not? Cool parts but dumb game to play. If you want to auction it put it on eBay. Out side of that no price , so its fishing...

The guy is too cheap to pay the ebay fees plus the 1099 I'd bet he would get.  I told him last week just auction them off. When he told me I could have the parts IF I was the high bidder it just didn't sit well with me. He isn't a man of his word so are the bids real? Take the eye brow moldings. A well known restorer has a set on social media for 1500 that a friend in France wants but shipping is a problem. So with a set out there for a while at 1500 he was offered 2K for a set? Could be. I was at Mecum and the 69-70 Shelbys didn't do well on Friday.

FWIW I was SUPPOSED to have first crack on these parts. Obviously that wasn't the case. I sold the guy some parts on an agreement I'd have first crack. I'm still living and learning in life...Parts came from a guy who had a 69 Shelby in Wisconsin and sold it. The next owner didn't want the spare parts. The owner has a 70 Mustang he is doing(Grant helped him out on an issue hence offered the parts so he drove to Wisconsin) and we believe he still has some NOS parts as the seller of these parts didn't bring enough money to buy all the parts. Happy hunting.

Here is an excellent example of how colors change. The Robe looks blue but the car in the background is a 68 GT500 Acapulco blue car and it looks green. Pic taken at Graduation and the grad bought the car in March of 68. Another pic of the same car.

Hello,
  Air cleaner for what motor???
                           Mike

a Jan-feb GT500 or GT350.
 NOTE: I should have been more clear initially but changed the first part.