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Messages - KR500

#1
Wanted to Buy / Re: 65/66 V8 spindles
Today at 08:55:33 AM
Found a set. Thank You
#2
Wanted to Buy / 65/66 V8 spindles
May 08, 2024, 01:53:10 PM
I am in need of a pair of nice restorable spindles for a 65/66 V8 Mustang.
330-685-5518 or PM
Rodney
#3
2069, Black
#4
195 deg. is the OE thermostat spec. and they work just fine if there are no other issues with the cooling system, engine, exhaust and ignition system. Using a 180 T stat I find makes very little difference if you are chasing an over heating issue. A high flow may help some, but maybe not as to high of a flow ( as in no T stat,the coolant flows to fast through the radiator to get a good heat transfer and could actually be worse). Fixing the root cause of the over heating is the cure not using a band aid lower temp T stat.
#5
Yes! Wife says how can you remember that but not other stuff (that's important to her)? 
#6
Charles
Yes 65 or 66 carryover car. 65 motor mounts and fuel pump.
Thank You
Rodney
#7
Bob
Thank You
#8
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Engine oil pan drain plug
April 26, 2024, 04:32:21 PM
What engine oil drain plug was used on the 66 GT350 T pans? New no paint, reused Ford steel pan plug with paint?

Rodney
#9
Corey
Acrylic lacquer is what type of interior paint Ford used in the 60's, NOT acrylic enamel. It was a semi gloss formula. Lacquer paint is very easy to spray, but very difficult to find. Acrylic enamel shouldn't be to difficult to source from a paint supplier. Yes it will take a little longer to dry as it is an air dry paint. You can add an hardener to this paint that is a catalyst. This will make the paint cure faster, add gloss ( not what you want in the interior) and make the paint more durable. A full urethane paint has all the same benefits as a hardened enamel with even higher durability, but may be difficult to source in the correct semi gloss formula. Plus a urethane is probably going to cost you more $. With the acrylic lacquer you typical will need color and reducer. Acrylic enamel you will need color and reducer. If you want to catalyze it you would buy some generic hardener. You probably would need to buy some flatterer to get the correct gloss. With full urethane typically you would need to buy everything required all in the same paint brand system. Color, reducer ( it may be an activated reducer)and activator, usually at a higher cost. A word of warning, Catalyzed and Activated paints have stuff in them that is very bad for your health. The acceptable protection to spray these paints are a full paint suit with gloves, eye protection and a supplied fresh air system in a enclosed highly ventilated area. A cheep paint mask just will not cut it! Even with all that protection I usually felt crappy for a day or two after I sprayed an overall vehicle. I don't paint much anymore. 
#10
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: T10 Fluid
April 18, 2024, 06:35:58 PM
Thanks to everyone for the info
#11
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / T10 Fluid
April 17, 2024, 06:42:42 PM
What transmission fluid are you running in a street driven cast iron T10?
#12
Quote from: SFcarbuff on April 17, 2024, 05:17:22 PMI have a mid March built car.  Did the front speaker grill come with the two rubber bumpers?  If so  which type were used?  Thanks
Yes they do have 2 rubber bumpers. I installed the grille from a mid April car about a month ago. Original bumpers were and still are on it. They are similar to the glove box door bumpers but with a slightly different shape. I think NPD sells the glove box door bumpers as replacements. Apparently there is no exact repo. I did not take a photo of them. You can not see them when the grille is installed.
#13
Quote from: KDunne on April 15, 2024, 09:58:57 AMI think they do look visually correct for 67, 3 nubs for the hubcaps, and the smaller center.  Seems odd that there aren't any markings on the hub, would expect to see a 67 stamped, a number for the date, and a ford logo. 
They may look close, but like I said they are not correct for a 67 Shelby either. No numbers,no ID,incorrect back space, NO CIGAR!
#14
Dave
That is the correct bearing. It is listed as 1.378" ID. The axles I have measure 1.380"and 1.381" where the bearing is pressed on. The 1.365" is where the seal rides not the bearing. They are a stepped axle.
#15
They are 67 or earlier wheels. From what I can see from his no detail photos they do not look correct for a 67 Shelby either.