I am wondering what the minimum length of enclosed car trailer I could get my 68 GT350 Fastback in. Specifically would it fit in a 16' trailer?
Corey
Very tight! I have a 16 foot open utility trailer. With the nose about 4 inches from the front rail of the trailer, the back bumper is just a foot or two from the back edge. And remember, you have to have some access to that nose to put on tie down straps. I have a 24 foot enclosed trailer and the car fits fine. Room in the nose for a spare for the trailer, I can squeeze up there and get the tie downs on (helps to have a side door near the front).
If I was purchasing for a car, I'd pass on anything less than 20 foot inside the box.
I know you don't want to hear this but, even if it did fit in the trailer, how would you expect to get to the tie-down at the front driver's side? At best, an 18 foot trailer is going to be "snug". Buy the best, longest trailer you can afford the first time. That way, you won't have to buy a second one. I know from experience because I'm on my second one and it's a 20 foot FEATHERLITE.
18ft is the minimum and would be tight. Consider that there needs to be enough room to move the car back and forth to achieve the best tongue weight for towing. 20ft is an all-around good length with enough room up front to put a few things.
Bump up to at least a 22 footer. Room for tools and spare tire. Also look for one with a side door for easy access up front, and a door over the driver side trailer tires so you can get in and out of the car once its loaded. Mine is an ATC brand, light and well built and I love it. The lighter the better with fuel prices going up under this administration. No end in sight for the rise in fuel until another election and we go back to energy independence.
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on March 06, 2022, 10:12:39 AM
I am wondering what the minimum length of enclosed car trailer I could get my 68 GT350 Fastback in. Specifically would it fit in a 16' trailer?
Corey
20 foot is going to be the minimum to safely tow your Shelby in. Aluminum (ATC, featherlite, Trailex) is the way to go these days.
Bill
A 22 or 24 foot one gives you enough room for the car and some small storage ( chairs, tents, cleaning supplies and in your case trophies you will win)
Find one with and escape door for the drivers side, makes it a lot easier to get in and out.
Featherlite owner here, I recommend full length L Track (airline track) for options as far as loading various length cars. Don't get a trailer with a standard hitch length, these make it nearly impossible to turn sharply and you will need to, believe me, at the least opportune time/place. A trailer winch is great for loading/ unloading but aren't totally necessary. Interior lighting for your trailer is great for checking on your load at night or unloading. At a minimum get the highest rated axles you can and don't get a trailer that comes with glorified car tires (light weight 15's with a mediocre load rating. For tie downs, check out MAC's, they are the best quality and stand behind their products. I've used their products for over 12 years.
https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_bjgbey9gIVpB-tBh1tNQZSEAAYASAAEgKxdvD_BwE
Another Featherlite fan. I'm sorry I succumbed to greed and sold my 24' one. Opt for the aluminum floor. From the side door forward I had built a changing room w/portapotty and a counter around to the same length on the drivers side. I had a sink with 5 gallon water jug and 5 gallon drain jug so you could wash up your hands after working on the car at the track.
I have always used 20 ft enclose trailers. Room enough for any year Shelby. It also provides enough room to put a set of upper and lower cabinets up front and still have room for spares which I always keep two of. 20 ft is short enough to maneuver relatively easily in tighter spots and typically light enough to pull easy. Regardless you have to consider also your tow vehicle too . For example even with the 20 ft pulling with a F150 and small engine is kind of miserable if pulling in a hilly terrain. Heaven help you if pulling over mountains. Open trailers are different because they are so much lighter. Just my take on the subject . This is one that there are many different opinions.
I had several trailers in the past. I always liked a 26' trailer in length and would like a Drivers side Access door . I would like a ATC all aluminum trailer as my choice. Just my opinion. Steve
Length: I'll concur that 20' would be the minimum usable length, but 22' or 24' is worth the extra cost and parking hassle.
I'll add a few more thoughts:
Tow Vehicle: Having a decent tow rig can make your experience effortless. I now have a '17 Ram 2500 diesel and it is much better than my old Suburban 2500 with a 454. I barely feel the trailer behind me, even in the mountains.
Brands: Featherlite and ATC have been mentioned as good choices and I agree. Does anybody have an "InTech" brand aluminum trailer? Back in 2018, I was leaning towards InTech when I found a good deal on my 24' ATC. InTech was reported to be founded by former-ATC personnel. I'm curious if they truly are on par with ATC and Featherlite as they seem. At that time, they were a tad less expensive than ATC.
Construction: Aluminum is considerably more expensive than steel, but the aluminum trailers hold their value better. Look at the list prices of used steel vs aluminum car haulers. When you figure in how much more you can get for the aluminum trailer when your done with it, I think that narrows the price differential a lot. Plus, you get to live with a nicer and lighter trailer while you're using it.
Winch: Loading a car into a trailer by yourself, especially a clutch-equipped one - under its own power - can be stressful. My '65 Mustang has quite a bit of room side-to-side, but my '19 GT350 has only 2" of clearance to the trailer fenders on each side. A winch is well worth the peace of mind. It makes loading a car by yourself a cinch (pun intended). Plus, it comes in really handy when your car isn't running or it blows up at a track day. (Ask me how I know.)
Escape Door: Make sure you get a trailer escape door that allows you to completely open your car door over the trailer wheels. Many trailers have "escape doors", but their lower edge opening is too high to enable you to get the car door open. The ATC and other high-end brands have escape doors which provide an opening all the way to the floor of the trailer and also allow the removal of the wheel fender, so your car door only has to clear the trailer wheels. If you can't get your car door open with the car in the trailer, you'll still be doing the Bo & Luke Duke thing getting in and out of your car.
I use an 18' enclosed Haulmark Race Trailer. It's a older 1997 steel frame but solidly built and the price was great. Mustangs fit no problem but not much room for any thing else inside but if you have a show car you don't want potential loose objects around. For the front tie down have to use ratchet mechanism with the safety hook directly attached instead of on a short strap to give you room to work it near the floor loop and leave some strap length for tightening. I don't have a LH access opening but since not a big guy can still open the door enough carefully and get in or out but would be great not to have to be acrobatic.
So much depends on the actual use you plan on.. are you renting one,or long term use? I strongly suggest a 24' w/v-nose and aluminum construction,including floor. Once you have the extra room available you will end up taking the equipment to make the event more enjoyable. I have 24' Featherlite with heavy suspension option and use for everything. Drag car,show car,moving,helping,etc. Drag strip days I load an EZGO golf cart in front and '67 Fairlane behind. Still room for lawn chairs,coolers,extension cords,floor jack,etc,etc. Tows like a dream with either Ford F-150 w/ 5.4,or 30 ft motorhome w/Ford V-10. Everyone has a different plan and budget. ;)
Thank you all for the inputs. Very helpful!
I have a Ram 2500 with a Cummins diesel so tow capacity is not a concern. I am just not an experienced trailer driver so concerned about hauling something too long. But I have a lot of food for thought here.
Corey
22' here. Good length IMHO.
FWIW, here's another idea. Montrose trailer builds trailers with a 'clam-shell' nose. The trailer pictured is 16'. The side doors are 7'10" wide. I can tie the car down with wheel straps to the eTrac while standing on the ground, no crawling underneath. The spare mounts to the floor. This one is 94" wide inside. It is all aluminum. They are available in any length. A Shelby would need an 18' or 20' IMO.
They also build trailers with aluminum floors with underdeck storage for tools etc.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/15-070322100620.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/15-070322100717.jpeg)
wow i like that!!
what are you pulling it with? motor\rear end wise that is
I saw one of those at the North East Regional a while back - fantastic!!
Quote from: hurlbird on March 07, 2022, 11:14:01 AM
what are you pulling it with? motor\rear end wise that is
F150 Crew Cab Ecoboost, 3:55 rear. The trailer is about 2000 lbs. It would be less with an aluminum floor instead of wood.
https://www.montrosetrailers.com/
how does the truck do? i have the same rear w/ the 302.
Quote from: hurlbird on March 07, 2022, 12:56:18 PM
how does the truck do? i have the same rear w/ the 302.
No problem at all. I would guess the 5.0 would even get better mileage.
Here is another video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GjwN0j78po&t=36s
Quote from: A-Snake on March 07, 2022, 12:59:38 PM
Here is another video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GjwN0j78po&t=36s
I also went with a Montrose trailer in a 20' model its been a very good decision also it comes with 3 jackstands so the trailer can be lifted slightly off the ground so the tires are not under weight over the time its being stored.
thanks.. think this is the best for me.. i also have a belair so ill need the 20 feet
I don't know about other manufacturer's but at most, a 22' is the oddball size. They either sell the 20' or go to the 24'. at least that's what my trailer sales where I bought mine was. I could easily buy a 20' or go to the 24' and buy right there on the lot. But, if I wanted the 22' trailer, they had to have it made.
Don't get me wrong, the 22'er was a choice but it was going to cost me more than the 24' that was right there on the lot. All they had to do was install the D-rings where I wanted them.
My trailer is the 24' Freedom V-nose. Pulls like a dream at 80mph with my F250 7.3L from Reese hitch.