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Thanks for all the replies and great info. 

OK, thanks.  I'm not worried - the engine runs great.  Just wondering what would be considered normal.

Standard bore - just cleaned up.  Stock pistons and heads.  I realize the cylinders should ideally all be +/- 5 lbs or so - just wondering where within the 130-170 range is most likely.  To me 130 sounds low and tired. 

I plan to replace my spark plugs next month.  My engine is stock other than the lemans cam.  The engine runs great - only 7 or 8,000 miles since a complete rebuild many years ago, but I thought I would do a compression test on it anyway when I changed the plugs.  When I do a google search on 289 hipo compression I see a range of between 130 - 170 lbs.  That sounds like a wide range to me for a good engine.  What range would the knowledgeable engine guys on this forum suggest I should be looking for / expect to see ?   

I do not have the answer to your question but just wanted to welcome you to the forum.  Congrats on your purchase - great looking car!

I also don't drive my car that much.  I typically only go through 2-3 tanks of gas a season and store my car for 5-6 months of the year like most others in the northeast.  I have never experienced or heard of any significant evaporation while a car is not used.  How much fuel is going unaccounted for?  Anybody else experienced this?

The VIN on 6S1575 is 6R09K176XXX.  Firewall area has never been messed with.  Almost all dates on the car's parts, panels, glass etc. are either January or February 66.  The latest date I found is a mid March date for one of the hood hinges.  I estimated the production date based on production numbers by week that was published on 66 Mustangs.   John

6S1575 with an estimated mid to later March '66 San Jose production date has neither the firewall bracket or hole drilled in the Z bar for an upper clutch spring. 

My 1st new car was a 72 Mustang sportsroof with a 351 C.  The dealer at the time offered undercoating with a lifetime warranty for the original owner.  The metal used in those cars at that time was so bad I went for it. I only drove the car in the winter the 1st year and stored it other winters and still had at least three or four free repairs - mostly to the tail panel around the rear lights and the back of the wheel house area and trunk drops. I recall the metal was almost paper thin in some of those areas.  I kept the car for 7 years and it still looked like new when I sold it, so I was very happy I went for the rustproofing.   

I recall one of the senior members on here saying the same thing a year or two ago when this question came up - that Ford Corporate blue was a very close match. I have a can of Dupli Color Ford Blue that I believe is the same shade that was recommended.  The Dupli Color paint code is 1601 if that helps.

I noticed a repo version last time I was on the Virginia Classic Mustang site.  https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/66-BATTERY-POST-TO-FENDER-RUBBER-SHIELD-P1181.aspx  I assume other Mustang parts vendors may carry these as well. 

Looks like she is trying for a double header from what I can see.

6S1575 has the plastic pins only.  2nd or 3rd week of March 66 Ford production from what I have been able to determine.

1) 6S1575
2) C (closed)
3) A (no web)
4) R (Ray Browns)
5) L (long hook)
6) C (chrome)

Many thanks to 6S1568 (aka Denny) for offering to buy the emblem on Craigslist and ship it to me - and also thanks to 69mach351w for letting me know shortly after that - that a Fellini-Mayfield emblem just came up for sale on ebay.  Better condition emblem, less money and willing to ship to Canada.  It is now on its way to me.  Talk about great karma and great saac forum members !