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1757, black

Naaaaa it's a Holley

Thing starts right up, no choke just two kicks to the accelerator. Then purs like a kitten with solid lifters....

Surprised you're not getting some binding with the throttle rod installed like that, should look like this...

Perfect, thanks Tim!

That filter looks to fill the cleaner assembly almost to the edge so is definitely the larger OD filter IMO...

Thanks Royce. Are there any 67 GT350 period mag test articles showing the engine compartment? That should shed some light on this since there is a noticeable difference on how the filter sits in the air cleaner due to the different filter OD's.

The reason I'd like to figure this out is I have several 50+ year old aftermarket filters (photo below) with the smaller OD, I'm thinking of selling but need to dial in the correct application. They should at least be correct for Boss 302 and CJ, just not sure about 67 GT350.

Curious which B7SZ-9601-A air filter element was used in the 67 289 HiPo and GT350....FoMoCo, or Autolite (FA-41)?

Asking because the FoMoCo version has an OD of 13.69", the later Autolite FA-41 version marked C7SF-9601-A has a slightly smaller OD at 13.30" which would have looked a little odd in the HiPo air cleaner assembly.  This Autolite (and later Motorcraft) filter was also used on other performance cars like 69-70 Boss 302, 68-70 428CJ, etc.

From my observations all the repops of this filter have the larger ~13.69" OD, so technically the smaller OD filter correct for the CJ and Boss 302 is not reproduced, is that right?

Thanks,
Dave

I've been running one on my 66 for a while now. Was planning on not using a front plate at all since it's not required in WA for vintage cars but decided this looked better IMO...

Unless I missed it, would like to have seen him answer the questions about the odd looking GT350 owner's manual.

Hi Dave,  you forgot to post an image of the manual in question for when the auction link no longer works.  Is this the one?  I wonder if Vernon has any thoughts on this piece.

Cory

Hi Cory,

Yes, that's the one. Vern asked about it in the auction as did I.  I agree with Bob it's most likely not genuine but sure it curious, would be nice to at least know what it is considering it's something we haven't seen before.

Dave

Unless I missed it, would like to have seen him answer the questions about the odd looking GT350 owner's manual.

Was a dashpot added to your 3259?

The dimmer switch cap was originally used only on convertibles IIRC...

Hi Drew,

Curious about your reasoning on the Daytona N/S as well. Have a couple that came with a rebuilt kit and was thinking of giving them a try but would first like to hear some personal experiences.

Thanks,
Dave

I have my 66 GT350 insured with Heacock. Was planning to add my 2017 GT350 to the policy but found it was actually slightly cheaper to go with USAA where all our other cars are insured.

To add to Bob's comments, I've seen a few early valves where the ridges are deep cut and not beveled. IIRC this valve had a late 1964 date code...

After being on the road since 2012 and being reliable for the most part, problems are beginning to arise. This one involves the clutch pedal. It is not pulling far enough on the clutch to slip into gear as easy as before. And the pedal is spongy which suggests the return spring is losing its tensile strength? I attempted to adjust the pedal under the hood on the Z bar but it hasn't fully corrected the problem. Wondering if that rod is even correct for the setup. Also wondering if there is a secondary place under the dash for an adjustment or is something more insidious going on like loosened bracket(s)?

Looks like you also have a 65 z-bar and clutch rod...