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Finally had time to inspect the rear brakes and emergency brake.  First I pulled the emergency brake handle and found it barely moved.  That led me to backing off the emergency brake, that made no difference.  Removed both rear wheels and found the right rear had been dragging.  I backed off both rear brake adjustments and checked the emergency brake handle movement and it came out much farther.  A test drive yielded a minor lock up on the right rear.  It might be time to change the rear wheel cylinders as they are 27 years old and may be hanging up.  Unless someone has a better next step, that is what I will try next. 

Greek

After reading the Sill Plate Emblem discussion for the 1967s it brings to mind what are the 1966 sill plate styles and how do the relate to Shelby numbers. I know there was past discussion about this but thats gone so here is the new question.

Thanks.

Les 1348

Thanks for posting the question.  We need to slowly build the data base back. Along those same lines, it would be great if folks who have taken it upon themselves to reproduce parts for our cars repost the information as their time permits.  I am sure it will be appreciated.

Greek

greekz
A few other things you should check also. Check the parking brake system. Make sure that the cables are not hanging up, not adjusted to tight and are returning fully. Check that the self adjusters are not over adjusted or rusted up. Check that the brake shoes springs are not broken or weak. Check the brake shoes for brake fluid or gear oil ( leaking wheel cylinders/axle seals ) contamination. Gear oil contamination especially will cause the brakes to be very grabby.
Rodney

Thanks, Rodney.  I will check those items.

Greek

  Rebuilding the valve is not that difficult.  However, be ready to have available that little 90 degree brake tube that attaches to it.
   Seems the spring inside deteriorates, even rusting a coil off.

   Second comment:  beware of applying any type of tire shine to the rear tire traction surfaces.  This too will cause this same type of "locking".

Thanks for the information on rebuilding the valve.  I usually only apply tire dressing to the side wall.


Thanks

Thanks, I will check it out.

Since, the other thread appear to lost, I thought posting an up date would be appropriate.  After receiving the rebuild booster from Booster Dewey and installing new master cylinder, which caused the booster to fail, the transmission shifts perfectly and I have power brakes for the first time in years. 

New problem now is the rear brakes are locking up when applying sudden pressure.  Perhaps my proportioning valve is defective.  Never noticed before since the power assist was minimal.  Anyone rebuild these?

Pictures of the installation.

You could try checking the gap between the accelerator lever and adjusting screw.  Sometimes with too much gap the accelerator pump will not engage soon enough.  Had a small hesitation on my '67 GT-350, once I adjusted the accelerator lever engagement the hesitation went away.  Not saying it will cure your problem, but something to check. 

As for question 2, I have nothing.

Greek

Thanks, Bob, that helps a lot.

I would not waste the time or money.  I have yet to see some refinished that didn't look like they were. I think you will be disappointed . I think you would be better served by using the Burton reproduced alternative. Those typically look closer to original then a refinished panel. Just my opinion others may have different.
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Would you say Burton reproductions are better than reproduction panels from the late 1980's?

Looking to have my aluminum pieces refinished.  Where is the best place to send them?  I do not think the old data is available.

Thanks,

Greek

When looking for another Shelby in the early 1990's red or white was the first preference, but I ended up with an Ivy Green.  The picture speaks for itself.

Sold.

Offering a very nice used original GT-500 grille/dash emblem for $100 including USPS Priority Mail. 

Thanks,

Greek

6S1134

6S1134