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The aluminum Shelby pan on your GT500 should hold 7 quarts plus the one quart for the filter. So every oil change should require 8 quarts.

No factory 60's GT500 regardless of year used a aluminum oil pan.

If it is the Ford steel oil pan you need 5 quarts including the filter. The TSB only applies to 1969 - 70 engines.

Just to be crystal clear for those reading, that means 5 qt total . No extra oil is needed for the filter.

I had a problem in paradise with the Shelby.  Once again, when the engine warms up and heads toward hot, it can cut off and the revs die, then I coast to a viable spot to pull over.  When the engine cools down it starts up again.  The second to last time that happened, I replaced the module inside the Pertronix distributor.  I just finished up again replacing the module today and also replaced the coil that appeared to have some corrosion inside it. The distributor is now on its third module.  The technique for installing the module is reminiscent of my 89 Saleen Mustang that I owned a while ago but sold.  It would quit anywhere and at any speed without warning.  I think there was a TSB on the problem but never elevated to the level of a recall.  The TFI (thick film ignition) module slapped on the side of the distributor on the 89 Mustangs can go bad and then the new replacement needs some dielectric grease to help it work before it is bolted on.  It also had a stator in it.  (Not sure if dual point ignition has a stator but I will look it up.)  The Pertronix requires the same thing.  Dielectric grease then bolt the little thing down inside the distributor as opposed to the side as in the late 80s application, and button up the distributor once you put the rotor back on.  I did some research on YouTube regarding Pertronix issues and the comments sections were replete with commentary about how their engines would cut out while driving.  Same problem I had.  Seems to be gone now.  I fiddled with the distributor and turned it clockwise until it fired up then locked it down.  I have not thrown a timing gun on it but seems okay for the time being.  The consensus with a number of Pertronix guys was that they were done with Pertronix and went back to points.  I think I may be reaching a similar boiling "point."  I understand that Ford distributors that would be period correct are as rare as they are expensive.  Neither Autolite nor Motorcraft would be correct.  But then again, the engine is an 86 302 roller rocker engine donated to the car by my father.  It apparently came out of a drag car.  Runs pretty strong.  Go back to a dual points setup or deal with Petronix issues?  Am I exchanging one set of problems for a different set?  Which set of problems is more tolerable?  I hate driving with the sword of Damocles hanging over me that the engine could quit at any moment no matter where or when.  I understand points need tweaking or replacement every 5,000 miles but they can be serviced at the side of the road if they go bad.  Are points as risky while driving?  Is there some advance notice or inspection that can preempt such issues as quitting?

Answer this question first. Is your Pertronix powered at the coil or another place and if so where?

 For future reference to save time start first with the owners manual.   Page 55 in this case.

Does anyone make an attractive, yet protective, cover for that console pad? I find that I often rest my right forearm there, and would like to preserve and protect that imprint when driving. Any suggestions? Thank you, Steve.

I am not aware of a protective cover made especially for the console lid . If you use the lid for a arm rest I would suggest at least a microfiber towel to protect the lid from the oils of your skin having a adverse effect on the vinyl.

The aluminum Shelby pan on your GT500 should hold 7 quarts plus the one quart for the filter. So every oil change should require 8 quarts.

No factory 60's GT500 regardless of year used a aluminum oil pan.

Hi again 67 fans,
This small bracket seems to be on cars with A/C and as we know they also have a H.D.
Battery. This may have been added to eliminate the "shake" that occurs when the added load from the compressor attempts to slow the engine down. We also know that the A/C
belt tensioner was redesigned to prevent belt vibration. Seems most cars lack this small
bracket and really should have have one. Batteries are expensive and will crack with the
added vibration without "Z" bracket in place, acid damage is no fun to clean up. Seems that only cars built after Feb 67 have either option so the number of cars will likely be small
R.R.

There are a multitude of cars out there without AC that have the bracket. There are also cars that have heavy duty battery but no bracket  . Not all A/C cars have the bracket or a hole to suggest they ever did. Consequently it doesn't seem prudent to suggest that they are related. What you can say for sure is if the car had a hole in the apron or fender then that meant it had the bracket when it left the assemblyline. Any other assumptions are still only speculation at this point. If cracked batteries were a big issue there would be historical documentation like a TSB to correct that issue which there is not that I am aware of.  It wouldn't hurt to modify your car if it made you feel better to have the bracket but given the multitude of cars that don't it doesn't appear essential to have it ether.Of course if there is a empty hole in the apron where the bracket should be then a bracket was there in the past and is now missing.I think NPD still carries a good reproduction of the bracket.

Hi 67 Owners
Looking for cars with a bracket from battery to fender apron "Z" shaped Ford part # is
10A705 Thanks!!!
R.R.

Your title compels me to ask if you think that the battery hold down bracket is relevant only to a A/C car? 

With the right tire, grip and driver the breaking of the small in-out will be really easy starting at 425-450 hp ask me how I know ;-) ok I have some small blocks with more than 700 hp where even the big in-out will not last anymore.

I had to build some small blocks with the big in-out so that's why I asked. For a small input shaft the engine is very strong and the risk for a shaft failure is high. I just asked as I like the car.

I don't think that the 67-70 TA high horsepower 289/302 equipped cars used the big in big out trans.Consequently I don't think breakage was a big issue. 

Kent my statement "I don't think breakage was a big issue" isn't a absolute and doesn't mean it couldn't happen. There can always be a anomaly. Sorry to read that you had to be that guy. My point is that within the racing program for the TA cars at least it apparently was not a issue . Consequently it should be even less of a issue for a non competition car.

Isn't the early hose to control valve 1/4" ?

and so is the late. At least from the factory. Many control valves get changed over the years for the more plentiful and common replacement control valve with larger fitting .

I had to build some small blocks with the big in-out so that's why I asked. For a small input shaft the engine is very strong and the risk for a shaft failure is high. I just asked as I like the car.

I don't think that the 67-70 TA high horsepower 289/302 equipped cars used the big in big out trans.Consequently I don't think breakage was a big issue. 

You should amend your research as later GT350/500 used the small fitting also 

Here is the original from 6S933:

That is almost too pretty to hide behind the dash.😉

Hi
What do you think the value of all the parts are worth
Seeing if it variable to do a package deal

You would need to know what all was included. Given he wrote too much to list you can only assume that there is more then in the pictures.

Sorry - just saw this today and the car was up on a lift I will take a look - would it be a noticeable texture difference?

Just curious on the front lower valence, below the bumper, is the backside of this part chopped fiberglass strands, or smooth?

Chopped fiberglass strands or smooth are two different distinct textures.

I think the Ghostbusters are needed. Today, CSX 2093 is in England and being vintage-raced. But through some miracle, it has become a right-hand-drive car. I wonder who might be able to explain this. Surely no one acquires a famous car, hides it in his shed, and builds a clone to race, right?

That would be a first ,right ?