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Since I've owned my GT500, if I start my car early in the morning when it's really cold, I'll often have to turn it over for 20 seconds, waiting for the oil pressure to go up on the gauge before it starts.  Next time it starts or when it's warmer the first time I start it, it catches pretty quickly.  The starter never grinds or freewheels, and always engages the engine immediately, just takes time to catch.

Over the past few weeks, it hasn't been cold, and I've noticed that I have to crank it over for at least 10 seconds (again waiting for the pressure to go up) every time I start it.  It always ends up starting, but it's quickly become annoying.

Has anyone else run into this?

Still looking...

I'm humbly seeking advice from folks like you who are used to noticing things like this.  Am I wrong in that the cable from the solenoid to the starter is normally something that's more hidden/less noticed?  Am I wrong that a 2 gauge or 4 gauge with the correct markings and terminals would not stand out like a soar thumb?  I know a 0 gauge cable would definitely stick out. 

Since the first foot or so from the solenoid is very visible as is the terminal end I would not consider it hidden or something that would get over looked especially when the battery cable is very nearby for a quick visual (likely unconsciously) comparison

In reprinting a larger cable would you increase the size of the print so that it looks proportionally correct but then larger than other printing of other cables or make it the same and then draw eyes to the fact that it didn't look proportional?  All choices that will need to be considered and made if you went that route

Great question.  Realistically speaking, from an electrical perspective, the entire run is ~80".  If you keep a foot of the solenoid cable, 6" of the battery negative cable, and the 8" battery positive cable, splicing 00 cables after the visible part of the first two, you'd be almost equivalent to 00 cables all the way given you're really losing the voltage in the long negative and solenoid cable.

In this particular case of originality and solving a big block dragging starter problem the original repro Marti cables and the gear reduced starter is the best way to solve the problem IMO.

Bob, given I have original cables, is it even worth getting Marti repro cables given you said they're thicker?

I am skeptical that you will be able to make cables regardless of gauge with correct looking made on ends let alone the factory markings.

Which is why I started this thread asking if there was a source for authentic terminals. I have battery gauge crimpers, have done lead solders slugs, etc., but there's no source I'm aware of for the actual ends.  Every terminal end I've seen available would not look authentic.

  As an aside, unless Marti Auto has already done this, you'll have to request they make the ground cable about 4" longer so you can route it correctly around the back side (fender area).

Are you saying I need to request Marti add 4" to the size of their cables?

Bob,

First, I totally respect your advice on the starter.  Bear with me while I try convincing myself it can't be done on the cable side.

So I understand, are you suggesting I can't or no one but Marti can replicate cable style/markings and terminals that look like the originals, or is it more about the cable gauge, or both?

I'm humbly seeking advice from folks like you who are used to noticing things like this.  Am I wrong in that the cable from the solenoid to the starter is normally something that's more hidden/less noticed?  Am I wrong that a 2 gauge or 4 gauge with the correct markings and terminals would not stand out like a soar thumb?  I know a 0 gauge cable would definitely stick out. 

It looks like Mansfield Mustang (presumably sourced from Marti) offers 4 gauge cables for 68's.  Not sure about the lengths though.

My goal is actually to come up with some sort of compromise.

On the starter side, I've upgraded to a gear reduced starter on other vehicles, and they just don't sound the same as the originals.

On the cable side, I think I can get away with 4 or 2 gauge and keep it looking original.  I agree that anything thicker won't look right.

So given the current draw and lengths, one idea is:
Move from a 6 gauge to a 4 or 2 gauge cable for the short ~9" positive battery to solenoid
Move to a 0 or 00 cable from the ~32" solenoid to starter cable which is much less visible
Move from a 6 gauge to a 4 or 2 gauge cable for the battery negative and then after it loops around the side of the battery ~6" on, splice it to a 0 or 00 cable for the remaining 30" where it's not visible.

That should be "almost" electrically equivalent to all 0 or 00 gauge cable.

Looking for a Ford mounted (not universal) Hone-O-Drive.

Have original cables on my 67 GT500.  Sick of the rough starting and don't want to go with a high torque starter.

Is there anyone who sells reproduction cables with thicker gauge?  Alternatively, does anyone have a source for the battery terminals, in which case I could crimp/solder make my own?  All of the ones I can find anywhere new don't look right.

I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave

Dave - could you post details and/or photos of your special puller?  I'm sure many of us could use an effective tool that doesn't cause any damage to the wheel.

Many thanks

David

+1

As you can see from the picture I posted, it doesn't matter if it rotates, the spring will still work from any rotation.

As "The Going Thing" says, the most common problem I've heard of is the paint on the bracket.

I believe this is the correct one:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-oil-cap-chrome-push-on-style-1965-1966/p/OC2/

And for posterity, the twist on for the valve cover:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-oil-cap-twist-on-chrome-390-1967/p/OC30/

I ended up getting a Napa Legend Premium which worked well.

I'm trying to understand which oil dipstick is correct to use for 67 428's.

I know the stock dipstick is C7OE-6750-A with the chrome handle, many people have a C7AE-6750-A, and I somehow ended up with a C8OE-6750-C, which I'm looking to replace.

Now reading over these pages:
http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=4841.msg42983#msg42983
https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-oil-level-indicator
https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-oilpan

Assuming you have a stock oilpan, do people replace 67 model dipsticks according to the TSB?  The TSB only references 69-70.  Also, how does the windage tray come into play?  I know people put those on 67 models too.